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South/West Caribbean « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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“Front Porch”

Would you believe it I finally obtained the dive map from Budget Marine yesterday. I dropped off the four used tanks at Dive Friends letting them know one had lost about 1,000 PSI before we used it and pointed out where the leak was. Even though we’d managed a decent dive on it the manager gave us a free fill. Very nice of them. Our tanks still hadn’t arrived yet so I took another two.

Helen and I then packed our gear into the dinghy and went to a spot just north of Harbour Village Marina called “Front Porch”. It wasn’t clear where the spot was from the sea as my guess is is that the dive marker was on land. We asked someone in the water who gave us guidance to the spot – at least where he thought it was. One of the attractions to this spot was a wreck of a fishing boat sitting on the bottom at 80ft.

We donned our gear, always a little more awkward in the dinghy, and back flipped into the water. After making sure we were both ok we descended to find the wreck. We hit bottom at 102ft and saw no wreck. To conserve air we ascended to about 70ft and headed south, this being my guess as to the direction of the wreck. After about 5 minutes the wreck appeared out of the shadows. It was on it’s side in about 90ft with the open section away from us. We swum over it then peered under.

The dive then progressed as with the previous ones, running parallels along the sloping reef ascending 10-20ft each time. We spotted a sinister looking and very large barracuda lurking in the depths and Helen caught sight of a green moray hiding in the reef. Nearer the top of the reef we came upon what we both initially thought was murky water. It turned out to be a few of the corals spawing. Out of their tubular vents poured a fine mist like underwater volcanoes. That was a great surprise as we thought all the spawning had occurred during September and October.

Back on Dignity we rested for an hour before heading off for a walk. We wanted some leg exercise as we’d had none for a while. We walked along the seafront for a while before heading into the commercial district. We wanted to check out the supermarkets over that way before making any broader effort to buy any supplies. As suspected the prices reflected the geographic/political isolation of the island so we only bought opportunistically – ie, things we don’t normally see. In this case it was a couple of small packets of nan bread. We bumped into the Jacksters, Inspiration Ladies and their friends on Going South who were provisioning up having hired a vehicle they could share.

We walked further out of town before looping back and coming back in from a different direction. We picked up some fresh milk on the way. We again bumped into the Jacksters, et al, at the dinghy dock as they were loading up their supplies.

That was about it. Back on the boat we had our evening meal and I wrestled with the internet for a while. Something’s changed recently and it’s hard to get a decent connection. Hopefully I can get this blog out.

“Mi Dushi”

Thursday morning: another trip to Budget Marine to pick up my map. Another wipe out. Took their number this time so I’ll call before going again. We then motored Dignity around Klein Bonaire to a dive site called “Mi Dushi”. I had made a note of this site while in Budget Marine as the guide suggested this was the site to spot sea horses. Leaving our mooring we were hailed by Alofa who wondered if we were leaving just as they were arriving. We reassured them we weren’t and would be around for a few days yet.

The waters at the Mi Dushi were crystal clear and the colours out of this world. No seahorses spotted though but the dive was excellent all the same.

INSERT_MAP

Arriving back at the mainland we discovered someone else had taken the mooring we had been on (you’re not allowed to reserve them) so we took another a little further north. We found the internet connection to be poor there so after dinghying around and checking some of the others we ended up tying up to the mooring next to our previous which looked as though it had an issue but was fine.

Throughout the day we had exchanges with Jackster and Inspiration Lady sharing notes and materials we’d collected for our passage west.

We had a quiet evening to ourselves. We were a little worn out and needed it after the two previous evenings.

Painting Lessons. Another Sundowner.

We had a fairly slow morning rising due to the night before. The coconut telegraph at 8am was the final reason for getting up. To our delight we heard that Inspiration Lady and Jackster had both arrived in Bonaire. They had bypassed the Aves on the strength of a forecast of little or no wind the following day. As it was they had had to motor a lot of the way from Los Roques. We soon had contact on the VHF and agreed to meet up for sundowners in the evening – the second in a row for us.

Next we had a trip into town for some provisioning. We also swung by the Budget Marine to see if the dive map had arrived. It hadn’t. They suggested coming back today. We’ll see.

Then it was down to some serious hammock lying and reading until lunch. After lunch, Teri from Sea Otter came over to give Helen a water colour painting lesson. Teri spent 2½ hours with Helen showing her the basics and some different techniques for achieving different effects. The result, we all thought, was pretty good. A combination of good teaching and talented student perhaps.

Sea Otter are heading out today. They will make their way to St Thomas where Teri will paint some more and sell her paintings to the tourists. She makes enough money this way to feed them for the following year. Teri kindly left Helen some of her old paints to keep going.

By the time all was packed up it was time to have the Jacksters (Jackie and Dave) and the Inspiration Ladies (Jackie and Gary) aboard for a fine evening of conversation, nibbles and the odd beverage. We all have rough plans of making it to NZ by the end of next year. It was good to catch up with them and learn of their travels and recent experiences.

Winches, diving and company in Bonaire

Obtaining a working windlass was the priority task for the day. In the morning, Britt from Sea Otter passed by and I used the opportunity to discuss the project. He offered some good thoughts regarding weatherproofing the wood support. On his advice we started applying acetone to the wood keeping it covered from the rain which was falling sporadically.

I made a trip to Budget Marine to see if they had the map we needed yet. They didn’t but the lady was out to get it so it’s possible we could get our hands on it today. Next stop was the dive school to check on our tanks. I learned that we won’t get them until Friday but the manager said I could use their tanks until then using the fill rate applicable to owned tanks. That was nice.

Back on the boat Helen and I made plans for an afternoon dive with the tanks off of the back of Dignity where we were. Note – we have moved a little north since the last dive off of the boat. After lunch and another application of acetone to the wood base to the windlass we splashed. This was our first dive on the tanks for some time and Helen was a little nervous of the depth. Our plan was to descend in stages checking buoyancy and equipment at each stage. We leveled off at 76 feet and did the usual parallel runs of the reef ascending on each turn. Overall the dive lasted 47 minutes. The reef was pretty much identical to the last two dives on the hookah. The marine life was significantly more abundant on this dive.

After the dive it was back to work on the windlass. I applied fiberglass resin to the exposed woodwork to seal it off from the elements. We then seated the new windlass on it’s gasket applying a polyurethane seal to both sides (another suggestion from Britt). I then attached the new gearbox and motor from below (I hate working in the anchor chain locker). The first test seemed fine. I then discovered the windlass wouldn’t take any load. It kept slipping. This is when I discovered I had forgotten to insert the key into the groove on the spindle. To remedy this I had to get back into the anchor chain locker, remove the motor and gear box, put the key into the groove and reassemble everything. After that everything was fine.

After all this it was cleanup time. We had invited Britt and Terri over from Sea Otter along with Dennis and Allayne from Audrey Paige, who we’d last met in Grenada, over for sun downers. The boat was a mess with all the dive gear out and all the tools and old windlass parts lying around. We managed it.

We had a great evening. Everyone showed up at 6pm and only left for home at 11:30pm. Terri left us with some prints of artwork she produced which was extremely generous.

The Sea Otters are planning to head east today although they had a few possible excuses to stay an extra day. If they do, Terri will be around today to give Helen a water colour lesson.

As for the rest of the day, no idea at present. We may do another dive, we may not. I fancy a rest from boat work but often boredom can stimulate activity. Who knows?

Loving the tuna & a rainbow at night

Monday morning we took the dinghy out on a few stops.  First stop was to visit Budget Marine to pick up a Bonaire flag.  There we realized we already had a Netherlands Antilles flag which I think extends enough courtesy.  We did pick up some cleaning solutions though and noticed a rather nice map and summary of all the dive sites.  The assistant didn’t know the cost but believed we could get hold of a copy today (Tuesday).  Hopefully it’s a decent price and reflects the situation post Omar (the hurricane that came close to Dignity last year) which changed a lot of reefs round here.

We then headed off to Harbour Marina to drop of trash and see if we could find a chart of the entrance to Cartegena.  It’s the one chart we’re missing in any detail and need this before heading off.  No luck there.

We then headed for the dive shop to see if our tanks had been returned.  On the way we stopped by “Sea Otter” to say hello.  They had helped us out on the net once and this was enough to open the conversation with a thank you.  We realized we had a few things to help each other out with.  They pointed out their neighbour had just returned from Cartegena and may be able to help with charts and or guidance.

The dive store hadn’t received the tanks yet nor did the guy there have any idea when.  We’d like them soon but we do have things to do in the meantime.

I did go for a snorkel around Dignity in the morning.  A few days ago I spotted what I was sure was a crusted divers knife out of the bathroom port.  I didn’t pay enough attention to the boat orientation at the time so it gives me something to search for.  Two searches gone and still I haven’t found it.  I’m beginning to think it might have been an illusion – a couple of pieces of dead coral just lying right.

Middle of the day was the usual doing not a lot.  In the afternoon I decided to take yet another look at the windlass.  Helen has the feeling it isn’t working as well as it used to.  I had recently noticed that mud was dripping from the bottom of the shaft connecting the gearbox to the windlass.  This suggested that mud had made it’s way between the two and could be causing issues.

I tried to remove the gearbox.  It was encrusted with salt and grime (due to our poor care and maintenance no doubt).  Eventually I managed to remove the gearbox.  The gap between the gearbox and windlass above was jammed full of grease, grime and encrusted salt – a real mess.  Prior to removing the gearbox I did test it’s ability to turn.  It wasn’t bad but the crud probably wasn’t helping.

In banging around to remove it all some bearings have come loose (or perhaps they were always loose but I doubt that).  We now have it all apart but possibly damaged.  We do have the new windlass which we were going to use to put in a second windlass.  It looks like I’m going to have to cobble together good parts from both to get a decent one.  Once it’s all working we’re going to have to take a lot more care to remove all mud before it reaches the windlass and to regularly wash down with fresh water.  Lessons learned – more of them.

The evening meal was tuna steaks and stir fried veg.  This is rapidly becoming my favourite meal.  The lateral tissues of the tuna we caught have rather too much blood in them so we avoid eating the blood filled meat.  The rest is divine.  In the evening I reread my book on preparing tuna so I can do a better job of bleeding the next one.  I am confident there will be more.

While enjoying the evening in the salon we saw something we never knew possible – a rainbow at night.  The moon was low down and almost full in a clear patch of sky while light rain fell upon us.  To our amazement this created a faint rainbow in the sky complete with ghostly colours.  A very nice surprise.