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Hong Kong / Kowloon Day 4 – Macau

I’ve almost caught up. Recently, I’ve been a day behind in my blogging. Not enough time.

Yesterday we were up early and headed over to Macau in the TurboJet Express Ferry. Once up and out of the water on it’s hydrofoils, the ride was incredibly smooth taking an hour to cross the approx 40nm of South China sea between Hong Kong and Macau.

The terminals at each end were just like airports with immigration, customs, backage checkin, the whole works. It was all incredibly efficient so we were through in no time.

Our first stop was the popular Ruins of St Pauls and the more interesting nearby museum/fort. It could have been a bind to reach the museum/fort but for the now ever present escalators.

Next we had a wander through town. The place is a unique mash up of manly places, China (of course), Portugal, Venice (the channelled tourist paths), Cartagena (church façades), Pape’ete (for the mix of new and old) and a poor imitation of Vegas (Atlantic City springs to mind).

As Chinese New Year approaches, more and more colour and gaud is hitting the streets. Much was about and a few photos taken.

Next stop was the A-Ma Temple which I found a little disappointing. Except, perhaps, for the whiffy odour of countless joss-sticks of all sizes.

After a latish lunch we both felt a bit exhausted so we decided to head back to Kowloon where we put our feet up for a couple of hours in our hotel room.

A great finale for the day was heading back out around sunset to the OZone bar at the top of the Ritz-Carlton (118th floor) and drinking bubbly while the buildings all far below us slowly lit for the night. Awesome.

Hong Kong / Kowloon Day 3

With the weather improving, today was our day to visit Victoria Peak, one of the more popular tourist attractions in Hong Kong.

We took an oh so cheap taxi to the Star Ferry terminal where we boarded the ferry to cross over from Kowloon to Hong Kong island.  We’d heard from a number of people that the escalators up to mid-level were a lot of fun and we’d been left with a strong impression that the escalators met the peak tram somewhere along the way.

We found our way to the escalators and made our way up.  They were indeed an experience.  Only in Hong Kong.  We passed on exploring each level or any level for that matter.  We just kept on going on and on to the top.

At the top there was no sign of the peak tram, just a sign showing how far away it was.  We decided to walk.  It was quite an eye opener as our path threaded it’s way through a concrete spaghetti of roadways splashed all over the hillside.

When we made it to the lower tram terminal we had to wait some time to get our ticket and then for one of the two trams (imagine two trams, a big pulley at the top and a lot of steel cable).  The tram ride to the top revealed more great views of the area’s architecture.  This is not Fiji.

We’d bought tickets to the very, very top viewing platform so we made our way up a few more escalators (we’re getting very used to these). The view down to Hong Kong and Kowloon from the top platform was awesome and worth the extra fee to visit.

We then decided to hike to the Victoria Peak Garden.  It was a bit of a climb but we got to peek into some very, very nice properties whose values/rents must be as high as the peak.  The gardens were very peaceful and had hardly anyone there.  There was one ubiquitous Chinese bride/groom photography session going on and some folks having a picnic.  Not a lot else.  The view down to the South side of the island where we’d been the previous day was all misted up so no pics of that.

On the way back to the peak tram we noticed that our path had taken us well above the highest viewpoint we’d visited earlier in the day.  The advantage of the latter was the clear view down to Hong Kong and Kowloon.  Higher up all the excellent viewpoints had properties built on and walls to protect the wealthy occupants.

Back at the bottom we struggled a bit to find our desired train station.  More escalators, concrete and malls to navigate.  We made it and took the train back to Kowloon for a short rest.

Back out we visited a local Indian Restaurant Helen had found prior to heading to the water to watch the Festival of Lights.  I forgot my camera so pressured for time we had to return to the hotel to pick it up before going to see the lights.  We caught a taxi and were half way south before I ‘realized’ I didn’t have my wallet.  We frantically asked the taxi driver to turn back before Helen found my wallet on the floor of the taxi.

By now we were stuck in horrible traffic going the wrong way.  The driver eventually got us to a place where we could walk the remainder of the distance.  This remained stressful as the first bridge over the road we needed to cross was under repair and finding the second blocked our view for a while.

In the end we just made it.  The Festival of Light show is just a bunch of search lights and lasers on a few of the HK buildings and the lights on those buildings dancing to music.  In of itself, not so spectacular, but pretty cool when the whole scene is absorbed.

We headed back via Temple Street night market as we both had a couple of things we wanted to pick up.  Back at the hotel we were pretty exhausted and didn’t take long to fall asleep.

For those of you expressing concern about Dignity in the aftermath of the terrible weather Queensland has recently experienced I can happily tell you she’s perfectly fine.  She hung onto her lines well and where other boats didn’t, marina liveaboards did an excellent job shifting chaffed lines for absent owners.  As far as I know, no boats were harmed.

Hong Kong / Kowloon Day 2

On Sunday, on the recommendation of friends, we took a bus to the South side of Hong Kong island to the town of Stanley. We made a point of taking the slow bus which went over the top of the hill and gave us some great sights.

It turned out that Stanley was a little bit of Europe, quite a bit French Riviera, but also a bit of a Chinese Mall and market thrown in.

We marched (took the escalators down) through the mall then explored the market. I splashed out on a couple of belts as my waist is down a bit. The vendor was happy to punch and extra hole in the belts I bought as well as the belt I was wearing.

After Stanley we took another bus to Aberdeen. This region has some strong connections to the James Clavell books and is the home of the Jumbo floating restaurant. Shortly after alighting the bus I found a vendor selling what I fondly remember from Chinatown, New York, and that is essentially waffle bits in a paper bag. I’ve always enjoyed them and was happy to share a bag with Helen.

Down by the river we were ‘accosted’ by a little old lady who ran a Panga around the bay. For what was essentially a private tour around the bay we agreed. The bay was really the end of the river behind a break water but we had a good show of everything. We eventually decided to be dropped off at the Jumbo floating restaurant where we had coffee on the the top deck.

From there we made our way to the Express bus stop to catch a bus more or less straight back to our hotel in Kowloon. By going through a couple of tunnels we were back in no time and settled in for a well earned rest.

I didn’t stay too long as I’d been looking forward to a local foot and body massage. We decided to split up for the evening. My massage took nearly two hours and was amazing. I went to a place recommended by the hotel as there are so many listed in side streets it would be a bit of a gamble picking one at random.

The foot massage was first. I was taken to a room with low light and even lower music and placed in a comfy chair with my feet in a jacuzzi. The chair needed the muscles in my back while the water soothed my feet. After a while my attendant applied some exfoliant to my feet and ankles before washing it back off and then drying me off.

Then came a delightful, and not short, massage of each foot and lower leg. All very nice. I was taken to a separate room for the full body massage which turned out to be mainly my back and neck. Rather than bore you with the detail I’ll only say that was great too.

Afterwards, being in the Mong Kok area I wandered the street markets again. At night they we very different, very busy and with many street performers. I then wandered down to the Temple Street night market near the hotel. Helen had been there earlier in the evening. It was pretty good but I thought Mong Kok was better.

Hong Kong / Kowloon Day 1

With a mix of weather being forecast we decided to stay on the Kowloon side and focus on things there.

First, we walked up the Nathan Road to Mongkok where, at 10am, things were just opening for the day. Even then, the hustle and bustle was developing but it wasn’t our intention to stay. We must go back one evening when the place is supposed to be really alive.

We took a train to Diamond Hill where we visited the Nan Lian Garden, a little gem of a place. It’s a little bit of old China nestled amongst the new. I found the contrasting images of the ancient chinese architecture and gardens with modern skyscrapers behind quite photogenic.

Off to the side of the gardens is the Chi Lin Nunnery. Of the Nun’s there were none to be found. But this was a place of reverence for many Bhuddists and there were many areas where photos were not allowed. The place comprised three courtyards representing three layers of enlightenment and each courtyard was beautifully laid out. It definitely felt serene.

Back at the train station we detoured via the Plaza Hollywood Mall where we ate lunch and I bought my first gadget of the day – a portable power pack for our phones.

After lunch we took a couple of trains over to the Golden Computer Shopping Arcade at Sham Shui Po. This place was really packed full of small outfits selling a lot of the same stuff. We picked up a few dirt cheap items but not any of the things I was really looking for. Nevertheless, it was an experience and again, maybe worth a repeat visit.

After nearly six hours on the move we were both feeling quite tired so it was back to the hotel for a rest.

In the evening we headed out again to experience Kowloon at night. Our first stop was a ride to the top of our hotel for a view from the roof. While not one of the tallest buildings the view was still impressive. And without the normal western suicide protection looking over the edge was distinctly wobbly.

This time we walked down to where I’d read there was a Samsung store in a mall. We walked through the Kowloon Park which was dimly lit and quite tranquil and eventually made our way to the mall area to the north of the Star Ferry Pier. This place was modern and immense with all the designer stores you could imagine. And then some. It was packed with what were presumably Chinese commuters and tourists. We found the Samsung store which was disappointingly small and definitely did not have the laptop I was looking for. Looks like amazon.com will get my order but we kind of knew this all along.

We continued down to the Star Ferry Pier to take a look at the view over to Hong Kong Island. In the slight drizzle the sight was still breathtaking but I imagine it would be better on a clear night.

We walked part of the promenade before fatigue tapped us both on the shoulder so we made our way up the Nathan Road to our hotel. On the way we picked up groceries and food from a side street a little reminiscent of the Blade Runner street scenes.

We were both exhausted and I didn’t even make it through an episode of Coupling before falling asleep.

More mixed weather today so we’re going to have to adapt our plans. No idea what we’ll do yet. One thing we learned from yesterday was a lot happens in the evening so a lie in is in order.

Last Day in Australia

After the physicality of the previous couple of days we really did take it easy on our last day. In the morning we paid a trip to the US consulate to have a document notarized. Our US passports leapfrogged us to the front of all lines/queues so it didn’t take too long.

Later, Helen and I took the free bus around town to kill a bit of time. We got off near Chinatown for a cup of coffee.

Later in the afternoon/evening we met up with Brian who was working in Sydney. He took us up to the O Bar, a rotating bar/restaurant with fantastic sunset views of the city. We then visited a couple more of Brian’s favourite haunts in the city before retiring around 1am.

Saturday’s trip to Hong Kong was straight forward. City to Airport Transportation at each end is polished so there was little struggle.

We’re now well rested and ready for our first day out.

Looking back it’s hard to imagine we really went through the last 7 months in Australia and that we have now left the country. For now, it’s holiday mode. We’re going to focus on enjoying this break.