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May 2012
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Euler

Snorkelling on the Rainbow Reef

As the light brightened, Helen noticed that our chain was wrapped around a few bommies. It turned out we’d picked a pretty poor spot the night before. So before anything else, we raised the chain and anchor carefully manoeuvring around the bommies. We found a better spot nearby and dropped the anchor there.

Just as we were finishing breakfast, Jack, the local guide to the spectacular reef, rowed by. He is renowned for taking sailboaters out onto the reef which he knows very well. We knew the Lardos were keen to go out as were we. We called the Lardos on the radio and they were good to go. Jack went over to their boat to pick them up while we prepped Dignity for the trip out to the reef.

We motored Dignity out to the part of the reef that Jack had in mind and anchored there. As he is familiar with the currents and tides the spot we had was safe for the duration of our time in the water. We all (bar Dennis who still has a sore foot) headed out in the dinghy out to a point on the reef where we could drift back to the boat. Jack stayed in the dinghy keeping an eye on all of us. The water was very clear and the marine life abundant so we had a spectacular swim.

Back on the boat we headed back to the anchorage. We were invited over to Lardo for lunch which we accepted. We took everyone over in the dinghy and kicked back and relaxed while Mary Lee looked after us. After a while I was feeling drowsy and rather than repeat my previous nights falling asleep on everyone we headed back to Dignity to relax.

The rest of the day was just R&R for Helen and I while Sam got on with his tutorials. I finally finished the fifth Game of Thrones book with some relief. The series started well but is now dragging on. With each book muscling in at 1,000+ pages it’s become a bit of a drag getting through them.

We finished the day watching a couple of shows on the TV before retiring feeling very tired.

Viani Bay

The morning was a wash out with heavy rain falling. The forecast suggested it might ease after lunch and it did. Shortly after making the decision to stay another day I made the decision to leave. The seas outside the pass were pretty uncomfortable causing Helen to demand we turn back. Knowing we were to fall off the wind and soon get some shelter from Taveuni I overrode her request and pressed on. Initially we were motoring only but once we did fall off we had enough of an angle to get the head sail out to help us along. It also meant we could drop to one engine. Later, when we were able to make more of a turn we could turn off the remaining engine and sail. We could have gone faster if we’d raised the main but we were too lazy.

Having been through the pass before a few times it was less nerve wracking than the first time entering Viani Bay. We’d made contact with Lardo who we knew were in the bay and agreed to meet up with them for a meal. We ended up anchoring not too far from them in fading light.

By 5pm Mary Lee and Dennis were over. Helen cooked up a great chilli dish. I was an imperfect host when I fell asleep before they left. A long day.

We’ll probably stay here a few days. Sam is keen to put some time into his studies and it’s possible we could get some diving or snorkeling in here on the reef.

Fawn Harbour

About 7am, just after dawn, we raised our anchor and headed off. The wind was under 2 knots and the seas flat so it was pure motoring. We ran most of the way on the starboard engine in order to postpone the port engine oil change. We only ran the port engine when raising the anchor and entering the reef at our destination, Fawn Harbour.

On the way we encountered a pod of pilot whales which were just hanging out not doing much. We radioed back to Lardo, a boat we know, who were behind us and let them know where the pod was. They also managed an encounter with them and were happy to have had the heads up.


We arrived shortly after midday then ate lunch before resting through the heat of early afternoon. Just before 3pm we went ashore. The timing was good as this was just before high tide allowing us to make it almost all the way ashore through the tunnel in the mangroves that led to the Pickering property.

Ashore, we headed off to Arthur and Sandra’s home to pay our respects, say hello, catch up and ask permission to visit the hot springs. On the way up to their property we passed through Mona’s home (at least her brother’s home where she stays). She was on the fishing boat when we went out last year. She invited us in for tea but we said perhaps later on the way back as we were on our way to her uncle Arthur’s.

Arthur and Sandra were home and invited us in for tea. We gave them some cava and some biscuits. They had one of their daughters there with them and a two year old who they’d adopted.

After some time there we bade our farewells and headed off to and up the river to the hot springs. The trail was quite muddy but we made it. The spring felt hotter than last year but we all spent time in there. The top pool was particularly hot. It was nice for a bit but soon we had to get lower down where the hot spring poured into the cold river.

It was beginning to get dark so we headed back down the river to the road and then back to the village. We stopped by Mona’s to say hello but she was out. Her older son John invited us in as it was beginning to rain. We stayed and chatted for a while but as it was getting darker outside and the rain had stopped we again bade farewell and headed back to the dinghy and then the boat.

We had a BBQ for dinner and watched a couple of shows on TV which rounded off a nice day.

There is no internet here so we’re cut off from the world again. Kind of nice to be unable to do anything about anything. Let’s us off the hook for a while. No doubt things are already piling up.

Overnight we’ve had a lot of rain, perhaps associated with a front which hopefully will bring some wind today.

We plan on moving on making our way to either Viani Bay or Taveuni. But for now we’re staying put as the overnight rain continues to fall. It’s just over 17nm to Viani Bay so we have time to wait for better weather.

Back to Lesiaceva Point

First thing in the morning we went ashore. Helen and Sam went off for fresh veg while I obtained our coastal cruising permit. They met me at the customs office just as I finished. While they went back to the boat I headed back to the market to collect some cava for sevusevu ceremonies as we travel around the island. Sam met me at the market and on the way back to the dinghy we picked up some extra beer.

Once all were back aboard we headed back out to Lesiaceva Point where we anchored for the night.

Just when I’d been thinking the water maker hadn’t given us any trouble for some time it did. We got another salinity probe failure yesterday. We had a spare so I fitted that. During the fitting a connecter to the feed pump popped out of the control box and I couldn’t find where it had come from. On top of that, the new probe showed the same error message. Doom and gloom. I sent off an email to Spectra for help. I then went back to search again. I eventually found where the connector had come from and when I removed the probe and reconnected it it all worked. Phew. Now all I need is another spare from Spectra.

Today we’re off to Fawn Harbour. The winds are really light so it looks like we’ll be motoring all the way.

Another oil change

We decided to spend another day off Lesiaceva Point and to use the time to do our first oil change on one of the engines. The starboard engine is up to 46 hours of use, close enough to the 50 hours required for the first oil change.

It is of course two oil changes as both the motor and the sail drive both need to have their oil changed. Extracting the old oil took most of the time. Because this was the first time I took no short cuts focussing first on the engine and then on the sail drive. Next time I’ll save some time by draining them both simultaneously. The foot pump assembly I made back in New Zealand worked really well for draining the oil from the sail drive. All in all it took nearly three hours to complete the work during which time I must have lost a huge amount of sweat working down in the engine compartment in the local heat.

Given the effort it takes to change the oil on one engine I’ve decided to wait a week or two before working on the port engine. It only has about 44 hours on it so it will be easy to stretch this out. The next oil changes are at 250 hours which will be some time away.

In the afternoon we transferred the 20 gallons of extra fuel we carried in jerry cans into the main tanks so we could store the jerry cans forward.

We all had some R&R until about 3pm when we up anchored and moved the boat back to Savusavu where we were given the same mooring ball as before.

In the evening we went ashore to eat at the Back Deck.

We’ve come into Savusavu to get our clearance to the next port. That also means we have to now decide what our next port will be. Chances are we’ll stay just the day and move back out to Lesiaceva Point prior to heading east in a day or two.