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Colombia « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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Back to the Old Town

We have decided to go with stainless steel for the wind gen support. It will match what is already there and be sturdy. At the same time we’re going to replace the old shower rail we used to create supports for the grill as they are looking decidedly patchy. Given that the s/s is not that cheap we’ve decided to hire a well recommended local to do the install. This we all arranged yesterday morning. Not that we may benefit much from it here. The winds have died down making the place very hot. Also, what wind we have is quite fickle as it churns around the nearby buildings. This sets the boats in the anchorage pointing in all directions.

Later in the afternoon we set off for the old town for a second time. This time we wanted to find some cheap wine, visit the cathedral and to visit the old town as the light fell. We also figured we’d eat out again.

We revisited “Contraband Alley” where the cheap wine is supposed to be. The lowest price found was $5 a bottle. We’ve seen better but we vowed to pick up a couple of bottles on the way back to try out.

Next stop was the cathedral. We picked up English audio tours for the place and were able to learn a little about the history of the place; how Drake almost demolished it and the French ransacked the town later on to pay for the Palace of Versailles. It was quite ornate and well looked after inside.

We continued our walk around town as the light fell. Right outside the cathedral in the park there was some dancing. Not sure what it was all about but it was certainly quite energetic.

As dusk fell, the lights came on and the old town changed in appearance. Perhaps because it was Friday evening, the place filled with locals. Very popular were the horse drawn carriages with young couples.

Our quest soon became one of finding a restaurant to eat at. All the restaurants had waiters/owners standing outside encouraging us to see the menu and come inside. The menus were hard to decipher being all in Spanish but somehow we got a sense of it all. At one courtyard there must have been six to eight outside restaurants all next to each other really trying hard to draw us to their table and their menu which looked just like the ones beside them.

In the end we did find somewhere to our liking. It was a small place with just a few tables. I think what swayed me, at least, is my tired feet and the offer of the first beer being free. We shared a mushroom dish cooked in cheese for an appetizer while for main course I had another fillet steak while Helen had a mixed kebab. All very nice.

We just about made the wine shop before it closed while walking back and bought a cheapo red and a cheapo white. We’ll sample them soon and see if it’s worth buying more.

Windgen is on the boat

Ok, so Fed Ex tracking page was a little misleading. We were worried that having been out for delivery from Bogota the packages were listed as being back in Bogota with an exception.

After buying a SIM card and calling a local agent he advised me to go to the local office. We left after lunch catching our first Colombian bus. What an experience? They are even more manic and aggressive that the busses we have experienced to date. Except they are busses too? Imagine medium sized busses decorated internally with fluffy mirrors and enormous amounts of chintz, conductors hanging out of the door while the bus, in the overtaking lane, cuts to the right at high speed to pick up passengers, the conductor having to run each stop as he’s last on and the driver won’t wait – then you’ll have half of it.

Anyway, we arrived in one piece and promptly walked nearly five blocks away from the Fed Ex office which was across the road from where we alighted. We eventually recovered from this error and found, to our surprise, our packages were in Cartagena. Less to our pleasure was having to pay 25% import fees. To our mixed pleasure the mounting kit ordered turned out to be everything but the tubes. No wonder it was so cheap. That being said we’re better off getting the tubes here.

Another hair raising bus ride back to our local and we were back on the boat. We spent a while planning where to mount the unit. I also went to the local chandlery to see what pipes they had. With them speaking no English and me no Spanish I did manage to get a quote from them. It was a rip off. Fortunately I sought and received some advice on the net and we’ll be off today to the main suppliers where it is all much cheaper – we believe.

The remainder of our barracuda went into a curry last night. The chef did well.

I have spent this morning catching up on publishing our tracks. Three more blog entries (probably below this one) catch us up from Grenada through the Venezuelan islands, Bonaire and to here. Enjoy if this is your sort of thing.

We also moved the boat yesterday morning. The boat in front of us was much closer than they were when we first arrived. They said it was their chain straightening and not their anchor slipping but it was not worth a debate. We had wanted to move anyway to get a better internet connection. We’ve ended up right next to Whiskers so we can yell at them rather than use the radio and have everyone listen in.

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Repairs, shopping and happy hour

Wednesday morning was taken up with having our freezer and air cons looked at. Around 9am I went ashore principally to pick up our passports and paperwork from the agent/fixer. At the same time I mentioned we wanted to get hold of the guys who fix freezers. Ours runs continuously and I suspected it needed a freon recharge. Davide immediately called the freezer guys and asked me to hang around as they were now on their way.

They arrived within 15 minutes and I dinghied them out to our boat. The freon turned out to be way down. It’s pressure was 4 somethings as opposed to 10 somethings. They slowly recharged the unit carefully checking for leaks which they could not find. They also deduced that the thermostat was faulty so this was replaced. I also had them look at a couple of our A/Cs. We don’t use them much, if at all, but it was a good opportunity to have them examined. The one in our hull has a temperamental start. This turned out to be air in the pump caused by a small leak. Now I know this I know how to get it going as well as what to focus on to repair it properly.

In the starboard forward cabin the A/C was dead as a doornail. They removed the control circuitry to have the local electric wizard take a look.

I haven’t yet spotted the freezer motor switch off so who knows.

Early afternoon I responded to a request for help from someone trying to hook up a VCR and DVD together. It turned out he needed a remote to control the VCR to see the DVD. We ended up chatting and I learned a lot about the San Blas where we’re heading in December.

After this Helen and I walked a couple of miles to the Caribe Plaza mall. It looked like just about any other mall but it did have a large supermarket where we picked up some provisions.

Back on the boat we had scant minutes to clean up before heading back to the dinghy dock to head off to a local restaurant for happy hour. We bumped into Dianne and Gerald who were on their way back having found the place empty. They had gone half an hour too soon which explained things. We all went their together to find the place very unempty. We had a good time their and ended up eating pizza there too.

Finally our windgen seems stuck in Bogota. This may mean some beaurocracy ahead of us so that will be our focus this morning.

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At 11/17/2009 12:27 (utc) our position was 10°24.47’N 075°32.54’W

Fun filled day

Our first full day in Cartagena turned out to be quite busy.

First order of the day was to go ashore and find the agent to clear in. I wasn’t sure what the local time was given that we’ve now traveled 15 degrees west from Grenada. That’s 1/24 of the way around and qualifies for a shift of the clocks. I therefore decided to head into Club Nautico just before 9am by our watches. If it was only 8am them things may just open then.

Club Nauitica turned out to be a building site. One of the attractions was there used to be a restaurant/bar where cruisers could hang out along with showers, etc. to use. This is all in the middle of being rebuilt so we’re missing out there. It also turned out to be 8am and the place didn’t open until 9am so I was early. I did find out there was a cruisers net on at that time so I rushed back to the boat to listen in.

We caught the beginning of the net and let folks know we’d arrived. Then Gerald from Whiskers showed up in his dinghy to find out what we’d discovered and to say that they would like to accept our invitation for a meal that night but may be too tired. We had a brief chat before he left as we realized we’d all meet up at 9am.

Back ashore at 9am we soon found Davide, the agent, on the street outside the marina. It was odd handing a stranger our passports and boat papers but apparently this is how it’s done here. We also met the dock master / manager and arranged for our internet connection which is lousy – as he said it would be.

In doing all this we met Gerald again along with Dianne. We agreed to walk to the supermarket together. They needed some supplies and Helen to look at prices. We initially thought the exchange rate was 1,600 pesos to the dollar and thought the prices were reasonable. We then learned it was closer to 2,000 which made things look cheap.

We parted company with Dianne and Gerald and headed off walking towards the Old Town. The architecture here is really quite nice. The area we’re in is a mixture of some old and more modern buildings. Apart from the high rises, most buildings are of an old Spanish style which is very quaint.

As we walked towards the Old Town more and more of the buildings were of the older variety – I guess as one would expect. It was like walking back in time. Once in the Old Town it was sheer delight just walking around. There were fruit sellers on the streets selling cups of water melon for next to nothing. We had some of this as well as large cups of squeezed mandarins to quench our thirst.

As we walked around the Old Town we kept being astounded by what we saw. We could glimpse through halls into exquisite inner courtyards. The old churches and cathedrals looked astounding. We decided we would leave going into the buildings for a later date and just use yesterday to soak the place up. At times we would wander along the old battlements. At others we would find ourselves in parks or in covered allies filled with shops and merchants.

After midday we were wilting in the heat. The narrow streets offered little respite from the overhead sun. We eventually made it back to the boat which, mercifully, wasn’t too hot as there was quite a breeze running.

This breeze turned into an incident. Not long after we had arrived one of the cruisers (Eddie from Navy Blue) came onto the hailing channel concerned about one of the boats which had drifted off. I suggested we should go over and determine what to do. We agreed to head off as did four other dinghies who must have been listening in on the open channel.

Aboard we debated between stabilizing the boat by letting out as much chain as possible and moving it. Some of the cruisers were familiar with the boat as they’d help to tow it in a week earlier as it had transmission problems. In the end we settled on letting out the chain and watching the boat until the owner returned.

An hour or two we were all back to help move the boat. We tied our dinghies to the side to provide the propulsion and we moved him back close to the fleet of anchored boats here. Unfortunately his anchor didn’t hold on the first attempt and when lifting it again his windlass failed. It turned out to be the button which he had to dismantle to operate the windlass. This all added time to the task but eventually we had him set and were able to leave him. It all turned out to be a good way to meet folks. In retrospect I am really glad we didn’t attempt to move his boat the first time as dealing with a failed windlass on someone elses boat would not have been much fun.

Before all this I was also able to have a chat with Pam from Glide who gave us lots of useful local information. Among other things there is a Happy Hour that a lot of the cruisers attend at 5pm on Wednesdays. A number of the people helping out yesterday will be there so it will be good to meet up again.

We then had a few hours to relax and read. Gerald again showed up to let us know they definitely would not be going out that evening as they felt they may droop.

Helen and I left the boat at 7pm and walked a short way to a restaurant called Day Olivia. We both had delicious steak meals for a very reasonable price. The bottle of wine cost as much as the two meals. It turned out we preferred each others steak so we swapped.

Back on the boat it was now late (for us). I decided to spend a little hammock time taking in the surroundings. On one side we have the container dock that is brilliantly lit and operating all night. Off the back of the boat we see the Bocagrande area of town which is all high rises along a very thin strip of land. At night it all looks paper thin and almost unreal. I fell asleep in the hammock coming down below some time after 2am.

Here are some pictures from yesterday. They are taking an infernal time to upload so please keep rechecking until you see the last one which, as ever, will be a collage.

Footnote: Our windgen and support is in the country. According to the fedex website it has cleared through Bagota and is back in transit. Hopefully it will arrive today.

Arrived in Cartagena

We arrived in Cartagena at sunset last night. We found our way into the bay ok even though the green marker at the entrance was missing. We dropped the anchor, put away the Code Zero then cracked open a beer followed by wine. We had a good night sleep (9-10 hours) and woke to find Whiskers arriving. We had a quick chat. Seems they arrived later than us and couldn’t find the entrance so they sailed up and down all night. We’ll let them rest but we’ve agreed to meet up soon. Good to have friends in the anchorage.

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At 11/17/2009 12:22 (utc) our position was 10°24.47’N 075°32.55’W