South Pacific « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

Chance Meetings

by steve, on October 18th, 2011 (Fiji, Monkey Feet)

My day was dominated by the stiffness and pain in my calves from my barefoot run the previous day. After any period of rest, getting up and walking around makes me feel like a cripple. As I type this morning it feels just as bad. Once moving around for a while things would improve and I did plenty of stretching to make sure I didn’t tear anything.

In the morning I had to go ashore to buy more airtime on my cell phone so I could contact customs and clear the package we had their. This was quickly arranged. Customs here are required to see the item onto the boat so I was told that they’d come down sometime in the afternoon. I then tried to find the letter containing our replacement credit cards. It was neither at the marina office nor the post office, 4 weeks after we should have received it. Fortunately there’s been no abuse of the card but it looks like we’ll have to arrange replacement replacements to be sent down to NZ.

Later in the morning I filled the dinghy tank and our empty spare can with premix and while there I arranged to fuel Dignity. We used the dinghy to reserve our mooring while we brought Dignity to the fuel dock. We loaded up with fuel and filled three cans of diesel to complete our reserves. On that front we’re now ready for the trip down to NZ.

The day was a hot one so when we were not busy fueling we mainly rested. Around 3:30pm the courier called. It turned out he was accompanied by two customs agents who were keen to come to the boat to see our small package delivered. We’re used to this. It was boat show time so we took them around and offered them refreshments which were politely declined.

Helen and I had discussed going for a short walk so all five of us piled into the dinghy to go ashore. I had to pay the courier but didn’t have the right change. Helen realized we’d left the hatches open so while she returned to the boat I visited the store to buy a drink and obtain the needed change.

I met Helen back at the dinghy dock. It turned out she’d left her flip flops on the boat steps so a third trip was required.

Our original intention was to go for just a short walk. We walked to the gate that guards the entrance to Denaru Island. There was a side road there we had not previously noticed or indeed travelled on so we walked up there. We passed a locked gate and eventually reached the beach well beyond the hotels. We walked towards the hotels knowing we could complete the circuit of the island once we hit the road.

As we approached the hotels we caught snatches of some familiar sounds – the dance music from Robinson Crusoe Island. We soon found Rita (she’s the one in the photo with me in my last set and a real sweetie) dancing alone with a couple of the guys, Bolo and Ess, nearby waiting their turn. It turns out they do this every Monday to drum up business. As we are now on friendly terms we were greeted with Fijian handshakes and hugs (where appropriate). It really was a pleasant surprise.

There was a special event going on for the ‘owners’ or something like that. Anyway we ended up being given tickets entitling us to a free drink each. We also ran into Blake from Monkey feet who was along to help out and Rico, the dance group leader, who is actually on a two week vacation but happened to be there to watch his dancers. We were soon chatting with Rico and the upshot is is he’s visiting the boat this evening. We’ll treat him to dinner. He’s from Rotuma, part of Fiji but way north and has a different language. It’s recently become a port of entry and we’re considering visiting there next year. It would be good to get some insight from him.

We eventually made it back to the port/marina after our several mile ‘short’ walk around the island. We picked up a pizza and took back to the boat to eat while we watched a couple of shows on TV.

The 5-7 day weather forecast is looking very encouraging. If things turn out as they are being forecast we could be off somewhere in the middle of next week in high teens winds and 2 meter seas. Doesn’t get much better. But of course, this is still the long term forecast but it provides hope.

We’ve decided to get out of Denaru soon after our crew arrives tomorrow, probably heading over to Mana or Musket Cove for a couple of days. We’ve further decided that we’ll pop into Robinson Crusoe for a day or two after clearing out of Lautoka. We may clear out as early as Friday but it may end being next week. It all depends on the weather.

Reunion

by steve, on October 17th, 2011 (Anthem, Fiji, True Companions)

In the morning both Helen and I got busy with boat work. Helen got busy vacuuming and cleaning while I worked my way through our check list in preparation for our forthcoming passage to NZ. The good news is all looks ok.

I managed to talk to UPS about one of our lost packages and it turns out to be held at the airport. It’s highly likely I can pick it up today. Another phone call should resolve this today.

The weather turned very hot. We had the music playing and as we worked we moved to the rhythms and both of us got quite hot. For the last few days I’ve been building up to do some proper exercise so around 10am I went for a run. I couldn’t find my running shoes so I went barefoot. In the heat I managed just over a mile before I had to rest in the shade of a tree. There I did some floor exercises before returning. I was utterly exhausted by the time I was back on the boat and my calves were already cramping up.

We were both done for the rest of the day so we read and relaxed and even watched a few TV shows which we don’t normally do during the day. During the afternoon, despite the pain in my legs, I visited True Companions who we’d noticed were here in the harbour. Soon we’d agreed to meet up for dinner and then to watch the Rugby ashore.

For dinner we all ate fish and chips at Bonefish. When leaving there for Lulu’s to watch the Rugby we ran into Jack and Jen from Anthem. We were delighted to meet them for the first time in ages. We soon agreed to all meet up for the match.

And what a match it was. We had high expectations for the quality of the game and that we got. Both sides played so well but NZ were in terrific form and got the result they deserved. From what we’ve seen, France will be demolished in the final next weekend.

We invited Jack and Jen back to the boat to polish of the evening. We managed a lot of polishing as we said our goodbye well after real midnight.

As ever I continue to eye the weather. The forecast high leaving Australia is still out there and now looks more and more to be our first real opportunity to leave south. As it stands it’s still over a week before we’ll have the right conditions to leave. Of course, that far out, any forecast is like reading tea leaves so it really is just a waiting game.

Back Again in Denaru

by steve, on October 16th, 2011 (Fiji)

Hopefully, for the last time this year, we are back in Denaru.

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We left around 8am and motored for about 1/2 hour in very light winds. We then caught a breeze, put the sails up and turned off the power. Across the flat bay we shot for a while. As Helen said, it would be nice if it was like this all the way down to NZ – flat, nice wind from the beam and daylight. All the way.

We arrived and ate our lunch. Clouds were coming in and a light sprinkle of rain cooled our afternoon. We decided to walk to Nadi. First we dropped off our accumulated trash from the last month and checked for the two mail items we’ve been expecting. Neither have arrived. New problems.

We made it about half the way to Nadi with thunder and lightening building nearby. As rain began to really tip down a bus stopped and we jumped on.

By the time we reached Nadi the roads were flooding. The bus couldn’t make it into the bus depot so tried a different route. We all bailed out near a supermarket. Helen and I popped in their to pick up a few things. The rain hadn’t stopped even after waiting a while. We chanced it across the river in the gutter and reached shelter on the other side of the road. We kept dry and made it to a souvenir shop where we bought some Xmas presents for friends and family.

The rain was easing by now but we’d had enough. We picked up some milk then caught the bus back to Denaru. We could see it had been raining there but nowhere near as much as the dinghy had only a small amount of water in it.

Later in the evening we went ashore to eat and watch Rugby. I was famished having had little appitite all day. In the end I ate too much and am feeling it this morning. We watched the France-v-Wales match on the big screen. Very disappointing for Wales. I can’t believe France are through. Whoever wins the NZ-Oz semi I’ll be supporting them for the final.

Momi Bay

by steve, on October 15th, 2011 (Fiji)

Spent the day here in Momi Day. We did a couple of washes which also meant the batteries all got a good charge. I sorted out some of our music collection which we listened to throughout the day. Not a lot else to say. Soon we’ll be off round the corner to Denaru.

Drunk on Life

by steve, on October 14th, 2011 (Coramandel, Fiji)

I was feeling quite emotional yesterday morning. While at Robinson Crusoe island we’ve been in a very pleasant limbo. The place runs itself as a family and long term visitors get sucked in. For a while we’ve forgotten the outside world. But the prospect of leaving brings the outside world back in. In my mind were thoughts of the passage to NZ ahead, visiting sorely missed family in November through February in South Africa and the UK and the prospect of becoming grand parents in January. Stirred in were the feelings of sadness for leaving Robinson Crusoe and, not too long from now, Fiji. Front and center were very warm feelings for Helen brought on from watching her dance the night before. It feels like when we first met 28 years ago.

I first went ashore on my own to pick up some T-Shirts, a DVD and settle up. I treated myself to a cooked breakfast, something I’m not allowed on the boat unless I’ve been really good. I gave some antibiotics to Clint, the dive instructor, who has an infected boil on his leg as well as some of Helen’s chilli chutney which I also gave to Rie and Don from Coromundel. We have enough to last and the excess won’t be allowed into NZ so we gave it away. I also gave some scissors to the dance group as the ones they’d been using when Helen had helped out were really bad.

Once this was all sorted I returned to the boat to pick up Helen and a USB stick so we could collect some of the music played at the resort. We said our goodbyes, gave a few hugs and made our departure.

The winds were light so we motor sailed. In calm seas we headed north west with the job out for an extra push. We cranked up the music playing Cat Stevens mixed with some of our new Polynesian mix. For some reason, once out at sea there are no regrets. Past and future merge into one, the emotions run. We were drunk on life. I think the South Pacific hook set a little deeper. (On that note it’s worth pointing out we caught no fish).

We only went as far as Momi Bay where we intend to wait a couple of nights before heading into Denaru Marina.

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Here we enjoyed a quiet afternoon to ourselves. We watched the videos of our dancing and remembered the fun we had. It’s obvious we don’t have the bodies of the dancers (although in my mind Helen always does) but I think we’re doing pretty well considering our combined ages are over 100. In the spirit of trying anything once we’ve found something that was very personally enjoying.

BBQ ribs for dinner. Mmmmmm.

I continue to look at the wide area forecasts each day. The ‘Big Fat High’ which, 5 days ago was forecast to leave Australia 5-6 days from then, is still forecast to leave Australia in 5-6 days. Maybe it’s sitting there waiting for our departure. Somehow I doubt it. I expect that if I looked at a map of where the jet stream is right now it’s probably snaking around this system leaving it stationary. It’ll be good to watch as it passes as we could well be taking the next one behind it.

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