Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

We waited out a humid, wet morning. The rain eventually stopped but we decided a walk ashore would be hot, muddy and miserable so we canned the idea. Thinking we could close some distance to Savu Savu we set off just before lunch with the sun high and the reefs nicely visible. We motored around the south side of Rabi and into the wind. When we had a clear angle through the outer reef we set the sails and headed south at nice brisk 7 knots. This didn’t last long as we soon came into the wind shadow of Taveuni and out came the sails. We motor sailed for a while before eventually dropping the sails which were doing nothing.

We had a few options as a destination. We made it to Viani Bay as the sun was setting. We tried one anchorage but couldn’t read the bottom so we headed over to where we anchored before.

The plan for today is to set off fairly soon and make it as far as the Jean-Michel Cousteau Resort just outside of Savu Savu.

We left Taveuni following well worn tracks on our chart plotter. The wind was a bit variable as we left. The wind was not taking us in the right direction so we tried jibing and wing on winging before returning to the original sail configuration which was then ok. We put out a line to catch fish as gifts for the locals when we arrived. We very quickly caught a smallish skipjack which I dispatched and bagged up. Half way across the passage the fishing line went zinging. Something powerful was on the line. I increased the break on the reel as the line was rapidly running out. I increased it more, perhaps too much as the line went limp. I reeled in the now lureless line wondering what the hell it was that took my favourite pink squiddie. I actually felt quite sad as that one has lasted much longer than many others and brought home some very tasty meals.

As we approached the reef surrounding Rabi (pronounced Rambi) we dropped the sails and motored in. Being in unfamiliar territory we wanted to be as cautious as possible. Coming inside the outer reef was pretty easy. As we progressed north we had to pass over a shallow ridge. This proved to be more worrying as the rocky bottom came up as near as 9ft and that was high tide. We made it over then ate lunch as we easily progressed around the north end of the island and into Albert Bay.

Albert Bay is a beautiful anchorage. Two other boats were there. We think they’re from the Pacific Island Cruising Rally that left Opua for Tonga a week before we did. The water inside the bay was very calm albeit deep. Once anchored we settled down to rest for an hour or so before kayaking ashore with our fish. We found some locals and offered them the fish. We knew there was a path over the hill somewhere around here so we asked the way and were given basic directions. We walked the beach missing the path on the way out but finding it on the way back. The path was muddy, slippery and quite overgrown in places. We made it to the saddle and over the other side but lost our way when we reached a patch where it looked like a lot of cassava had been uprooted. Rather than spend more time looking for where the path continued we headed back.

Back at the kayak we discovered the locals had left us some bananas and papaya in return for the fish. We thanked them and asked if we could take their picture which they were ok with and we did. We had a very brief chat before returning to the boat where we took a swim off the back to cool down from our exertions.

We’ve got a couple more nights planned here in Rabi. Not quite sure what our plans are in that time. Right now it’s wash time and we think we’ll warm up the hookah this morning and explore the reef behind us.