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French Polynesia « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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Baie de Vaipaee, Ua-Huka

The sail over from Hiva-Oa to Ua-Huka was a breeze with the wind alternating between being off our beam and a reach. We arrived a good hour before sunset. The bay we arrived in reminds us of Arizona. Arid and dry with red rocks like Sedona turning into patches of green. The valley along which the stream runs is lush with vegetation.

We didn’t go ashore last night but we did this morning. We walked up the valley past another local church which had some very interesting carvings.

Next stop was a little museum which showed off a lot of Polynesian artifacts. For such a small place the museum had so much to see.

The village had three shops which we went into to look for things to buy on the way back. We then headed off out of the valley to the arboreum in the next valley along. Although it was early in the morning it was already getting hot and sweaty. Fortunately we were picked up by a local who took us the rest of the way. The arboreum was interesting but not up to some of the horticultural gardens we’ve seen. Most of it was a cultivated orchard.

We again caught a ride on the way back to Vaipaee where we stopped off at the shops to pick up some food.

There is fresh water at the dock here from which we’ll fill our bottles and have a wash. Our water maker part is still in New Zealand although it’s still due to arrive in Tahiti tomorrow. Fingers crossed it’s on a flight in the next 24 hours.

We’re going to move the boat around the corner to the next bay to wait out the day in readiness for an early start to Ua-Pou tomorrow.

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Hapatoni & Bahia Hanamenu

Around 8am we went ashore to explore Hapatoni. This little village is less touched by modern life than the others we’ve seen. There was a communal area with poles carved in a local fashion as were one or two other buildings. They had a church similar in style to the one in Vaitahu only somewhat smaller. Villagers could be seen keeping the area clean from fallen leaves, etc. making the place very tidy and clean. There was one small store where we found some corn starch which we’ve been looking for.

Back on the boat we all had a snorkel off the back of the boat. The jelly fish were not as abundant as the previous afternoon so we were able to get about a bit.

We saw a pod dolphins off in the distance – perhaps the same ones we’d seen the previous day. I’d forgotten to mention this in my previous blog but as we were arriving in the bay we came close to a pod of small dolphins which were larking about – some leaping out of the water doing flips and/or rolls in the air. They certainly know how to enjoy themselves. Or show off perhaps.

Before lunch we were sailing north back toward Hiva Oa. The winds were tricky for a while but soon we had the winds on our beam and we were flying along. Approaching the west end of Hiva Oa we lost the winds in the shadow of the mountains so we motored along for a short while.

When the winds return we were pounded. My makeshift outhaul snapped and one of our sail cars broke before I was able to reef the main. Soon we were up in 30 knots of apparent wind bouncing through the waves. We sailed right into Bahia Hanamenu which was receiving the wind from the north east and could hardly be described as ‘sheltered’ as we were led to expect.

The north side of Hiva Oa, at least this part, is a lot more arid. I looks more like parts of the grand canyon interspersed with palm tree oases.

The surf is a bit high for my crew to want to go ashore here. Helen is keen on getting away from Hiva Oa altogether so it looks like an early start to get to Ua Pou tomorrow where we can spend a bit of time before heading off to Nuku Hiva and hopefully rendezvousing with our water maker part.

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Baies Vaitahu & Hanatefau

By 8am we had the deck cleared and we were off to Baie Vaitahu just 3nm to the south. The little village/town there was in a valley surrounded by a towering ridge – quite picturesque. We were soon ashore having tied the dinghy to the dock and thrown out an anchor to stop the dinghy crashing into the dock/rocks.

The town was quite tranquil and I felt a restful feeling as we walked around. The main church had the most stunning architecture. It looked recently built made of a mixture of cemented round stones and wood carved using Marquesan designs. You’ll have to wait for the eventual photos to see. Helen and I both agreed we’d love to have a house built in a similar design albeit somewhat smaller.

There were two small stores in town. In the first one we picked up a stick of bread to eat as we walked around. We decided to walk up to another white cross placed at a point looking down on the bay/town. They seem to have a habit of choosing excellent scenic spots to place these crosses so they become an obvious target for a hike. The walk wasn’t as arduous as the one in Fatu Hiva but we were well rewarded with the view once we reached our goal.

We returned to the town and checked out the second store. It had less in it than the first so we returned to the first for supplies. We bought a couple of boxes of chicken pieces for a really low price as well as burgers and some more bread – we were set for an evening BBQ. Along with a number of other items we headed back to the boat to put things away. On the way we bumped into the Catafjords who’d made their way round in their dinghy.

After a rest, John and I returned to the dock to fill our empty bottles with fresh water from the tap at the dock. John washed some of his clothes while I washed myself down. Nice to do as we’re rationed on the boat as a result of the broken water maker.

We decided to try the next bay down to stay for the night as it was close to a small village called Hapatoni which we’d heard was interesting. We sailed the 2nm using just the headsail. It was quite a challenge as the winds came from all directions and changed strength due to the steep cliffs/mountains.

We picked a spot at the north end of the bay but soon found the boat swinging in the changing winds. I went in the water to check the anchor. Swimming was a trial as the water was full of the stinging type of jelly fish. I found that if I kept my arms in and kept moving the jellies tended to be pushed out of my way although I did my best to avoid them. I did get stung a few times including my top lip which was annoying. I dove 40ft down to the anchor and checked it and the sand around. It seemed fairly well set. All I could see looking up while returning to the surface was a gauntlet of jellies. I had to pick my way through carefully.

Back on the boat we waited a while to see which way the boat would swing. We decided to reanchor slightly further out so we wouldn’t swing too close to the shore as the wind often blew in towards the shore. Once moved we felt a lot more comfortable.

We stayed put for the afternoon and evening. John cooked up the chicken and burgers and we had a good meal of it. We finished the evening watching a couple more episodes of the Fringe.

This morning we’ll head over to Hapatoni to have a look around the village. Depending on how things go there we may then move on to Baie Hanamenu on the north side of Hiva Oa.

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Another “relaxing” day

The morning started badly. Helen used the head resulting in a nasty stink outside the boat. The holding tank had overflowed down the side of the boat. Looks like we had a problem all along. Thinking about how we might tackle the problem from above I realized we had two pieces of plastic pipe aboard that fitted into each other. This would be perfect for ramming down from the access port in the deck and into the tank – perhaps all the way down to the sea cock below.

I taped the pipes together lest one get left behind and started probing down. I managed to get beyond the bottom of the tank and down to the valve but there was no release of the tank contents. I briefly considered blowing down the pipe but thought better of that. I then taped the deck wash hose to the end of the pipe and ran the pump. This caused the entire contents of the tank to overflow down the side of the boat into the sea. It was disgusting. But still the tank wouldn’t empty properly. I asked Helen to cycle the sea cock a few times. It was then that we learned I’d accidentally left it closed when we were trying to fix the tank before. The tank emptied creating the typical brown cloud into the sea. We decided to refill and flush the tank a couple more times before extracting and cleaning everything.

Looking back there must have been a blockage. It takes a lot more than a day and a half to fill the tank so leaving the sea cock closed wasn’t the only problem. At least that’s sorted out now.

Next stop was the beach to go looking for fruit. We’d heard other cruisers had managed to find fruit in the trees behind and hoped there might be some left. We passed by the obvious trail into the trees behind the beach thinking that we may find some isolated fruit trees elsewhere. We scrambled through dry foliage for a while. John headed back as the flies were after him but Helen and I carried on. After a long circle we were again back at the beach having found no fruit trees.

We went back to the obvious path and found the fruit trees. There were very many lemon trees from which we collected a lot of the small lemons they have here. We also found grapefruit. small jackfruit and mango trees from which we were able to acquire some bounty. Having filled a plastic bag full of fruit we headed back to the boat. John had already swum back to Dignity.

Next effort was to look at the Hookah again. We removed it from it’s case and overfilled it with oil again. Cranking the engine with a spanner revealed some grinding noises from the air compressor section. We open that up and found lots of metal shards. It looked like some bearing casing had got all mangled up. Once this was all removed the motor turned extremely easily. We drained the oil and it fired up straight away. However, the air pressure to the regulator wasn’t what it should be at first although that improved in time.

Before lunch we headed over to Cata Fjord to visit the couple who’d swung by the previous day and invited us over. This is a 60 foot catamaran occupied by a French couple who had been racing boats all their lives and working in the boating industry. The catamaran had two masts and was very sleek. The living area was quite large and open – one could have a disco in there. We spent a while chatting before it was time to eat.

After lunch I decided it was worth cleaning out the compressor section of the hookah while we had it apart. During the cleaning I noticed that the pistons were quite loose. Fortunately I had spares so I replaced both ends of the compressor. On testing everything seemed fine. By now it was early afternoon. We decided to all go out and test the unit so we set it up for three divers and headed out.

All seemed fine for around 15 minutes until suddenly we all found we couldn’t breath. We ascended slowly and found we could breath around 20ft down. We returned to the boat at this depth and pulled everything aboard. I didn’t have the will to dismantle everything again and troubleshoot this new issue. I’m going to have to get a picture of the metal shards off to the manufacturer to see if they can provide some insight. The diagrams we have of the compressor provide no insight into what could have mangled up.

After I’d washed up lunch John and I went ashore to prepare a fire for sunset. Having done this we headed back to the boat to wait for half an hour before we all headed ashore. Claims were again made on the beach that a green flash had occurred. I’m convinced I’m destined never to see one. I was looking at the sunset like everyone else and saw just perhaps a tinge of green as it set. Nothing outstanding and more perhaps the afterimage of the red sunset.

We lit the fire. The wood we had was so light and dry it burned up quite quickly. The kids from the family boat had a good time collecting additional sticks and throwing them on the fire.

We left John’s camera equipment ashore as he’d been planning to do some long exposure night shots for months and tonight was a perfect opportunity. We ate dinner aboard then I dropped John off back at the beach with the hand held radio. Helen and I watched another Fringe episode before I returned to collect John.

Phew.

This morning we’ll head round to Baie Vaitahu about 3nm away and the village of the same name. There’s supposed to be a small museum there as well as a couple of stores and French bread.

… later …

We have now moved to Baie Vaitahu.

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Our hookah won’t blow

The day started of a little lazy waking up later than normal then reading for a while. We then decided to go out snorkeling around the nearby point. The water was nice and clear and we saw plenty of sea life. The highlight was catching sight of a huge manta that initially swam in it’s gentle way right towards us then banked off to the side. These are huge and amazing creatures.

We ate lunch fairly early then decided to get the hookah out so we could explore the sea floor a little easier. While I’m getting better at free diving I still can’t stay too long down at the 30 to 40 foot level. The hookah was hard to start but we got it going. We set it up for three and set off from the boat. Within 5 minutes the hookah stopped while we were 25 feet down. We surfaced easily enough and swam back to the boat. We hauled the hookah back aboard the boat to allow it to cool. It had seized.

A little later Ruth from Kamaya paddled by to say hello. I asked if she knew of anyone around who knew anything about small engines. Turned out the additional crew member on Victoria was a racing car engine mechanic. He was glad to come over and advise. In the end we gave the engine an oil bath. We drained the old oil out and overfilled it with new. For a period of around two hours we occasionally hand cranked the engine using a spanner until it turned easily.

We drained the excess oil, put the hookah back together and fired it up. It worked. We set it up for two and John and I tested it out for 5 minutes. We had planned to go out at night lobster hunting with Tim from Kamaya. We called him over to do a shake out dive while it was still light. We all three went down and the hookah stopped again. It had again seized. There it stands right now. We’ll probably go through the oil bath thing again.

We agreed we’d still go out lobster hunting when it was dark but with our snorkels. Tim had heard from the locals in Fatu Hiva that night time was best as the lobsters went out to the ocean floor during the day. We ate our dinner then watched a couple of episodes of the Fringe.

Tim arrived around 8:30. We spent over an hour out there but came back lobsterless. We did spot a few interesting things including a turtle, a giant puffer fish, a large trumpet fish and a tiny moray eel. Swimming at night, particularly underwater is always fun so it was not a waste of time.

Another ‘relaxing’ day here before we move on.