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They just don’t make it easy

Monday was sail day. On reflection I was half regretting the decision to drive up to Whangarei while Sam was on his way so I decided to take my laptop and check in regularly.

I’d woken up at stupid O’Clock, well before my 5:30am alarm call so after checking the internet and having breakfast I was off fairly early. I reached Whangarei at 8am and took the sail into the sailmaker and discussed the problem. They said this was very typical wear for a catamaran and they see it often. I guess the problem we fixed with this new sail (ie, the flat and ineffective top third) now made the sail a typical catamaran sail that would come into contact with the shrouds more and take more wear. We’ve already adapted our behaviour to compensate.

After seeing the sail maker I checked online and at that point there was no news from Sam, Ben or Amy who were all at Newark airport to see Sam off. I picked up propane and headed off to the marina where I ran into the kids and Dan from Division II as well as Bruce and Alene from Migration. I checked online again and this time messages were flowing in. Ben and Amy had been trying to call but couldn’t get a response. I tested my phone, it was working. I’d just missed a chance to chat, it seemed, as I was powering off previously and they’d had to act to resolve a problem thrown up by the airline.

A decade or so ago one could buy one way tickets anywhere and run into few difficulties. This was frequently abused by folks who would end up in a country with insufficient funds to move on. The hosting country would then bear the burden of repatriation. These days the airlines have to shoulder the responsibility and cost (if they don’t) of ensuring folks have the means to travel onwards from their destination. A return ticket to your country of residence is the standard test but not everyone does this. We had difficulties returning to our own boat from the UK but the airline had an escalation process that helped us deal with this.

Anticipating possible problems with Sam we consulted New Zealand Immigration several weeks back to understand what supporting documentation Sam would need to allow him into the country knowing he was leaving on the boat. They gave us some guidance which we followed sending Sam a letter proving he was joining the boat as crew, that we were taking responsibility for him and that the boat was legitimately in the country.

American Airlines, it turns out, have there own policy which is tighter than the destination country and don’t have an escalation process to resolve rare cases. They refused Sam onto the plane unless he had a return ticket or a visa. They refused to accept the documentation provided and refused to escalate to NZ Immigration who, as in our case, would have provided consent.

So the only options were to not travel or buy a return. A refundable return leg was priced at $3,400 and a non-refundable ticker was about $1,300 and the desk clerk gave the impression that the refundable ticket may not be, in all circumstance, refundable. Sam couldn’t cover the cost and Ben could only cover the cheaper ticket so they made the right decision to buy the return ticket and get him on the plane.

It is quite annoying to have gone through all the due diligence this end to ensure Sam would be welcome in the country to have the airline policy to be both more restrictive and have insufficient flexibility to handle this case.

I learned all this while sitting at the Town Marina and chatting with the folks from Migration I learned this was not uncommon and seems to be more and more one of those financial hazards of a cruiser and their crew.

On the upside Sam had had no issues with extra baggage. The duffle bag Helen had ordered to take the microwave and all the other spares ordered turned out to have been perfectly sized. The kids had done a great job packing and weighing as it came in at 50.0lbs. Spot on. Sam was on his way.

By 11am I had our repaired sail and was on my way back down to Auckland thinking through our new problem. $1,300 is a lot of money and almost twice the price of his ticket here. We’ve blown more than 3 times that amount blowing out a sail so this may just end up in the realm of the marine life burning through cash. After all BOAT is well known to stand for Break Out Another Thousand. But we’ve got to try and as ever, it’s best to start sooner rather than later.

Back in Auckland I parked the car near the boat and lugged the sail back to the boat. I made a second trip to get the rest of the stuff from the car. I then set about trying to get the right contact info to start an appeal with American Airlines and to get further information, hopefully some supporting documentation, from NZ Immigration while Helen made a couple of trips to retrieve my phone and to pump the meter.

My call to NZ Immigration was unusually less than helpful with the woman simply spitting out the same information I originally was given. I decided at that point the personal touch would be more effective so as the immigration office was near the car hire depot I decided to return the car then visit the office. At the immigration office they appeared much more sympathetic but the boss, who would be the one to help if anyone could, wouldn’t be in until today.

Back on the boat I pursued looking into the appeal process with American Airlines. We have a non-refundable ticket which we won’t use which we want refunded. After finding someone to talk to by calling the Australian American Airlines call center I was advised to contact their customer relations department. Looking at the AA website the only way to do this is via web form so I lodged my first appeal there.

I then had a beer. I needed it.

Very soon it was time to head over to Pier 21 to meet up with John and Pam from Passages. We hadn’t yet heard from Sam as our remaining worry was his transfer at LA onto the flight to Fiji. His plane was running an hour and a half late but his stop over was just under three hours. He should make it. We also learned he didn’t have to recheck luggage which sometimes happens. As what one airline accepts, another may not it was a relief to know this was not another potential problem or delay. So I took my laptop with us to Passages. At Pier 21 we checked the wrong pier and ran into Gary from Inspiration Lady with the Jacksters who’d all just arrived. Bumping into old friends is the best and it helped lift my spirits after the long day. We’re hoping we can all get together on Wednesday evening but that may not be possible. We’ll see.

We were soon aboard Passages with a beer in hand. I checked online and Sam had relayed a message via one of his friends that he’d reached the gate for his onward flight. There could be no more problems to respond this that evening so I could relax. After our beers we headed over to Squashbucklers, a local hangout for more drinks and something to eat and, of course, more sailors yarns. It was a nice place with a great atmosphere, good beer and food. I needed it.

Now it’s the next morning. Sam should have landed in Fiji and in some ways we don’t care if there are any problems. He’s in the right corner of the world. Whatever happens we can work it out (sing along), we can work it o-out.

Apart from an automated acknowledgement I have no response to my initial appeal from AA. I will make more attempts to contact them once I know to what level NZ Immigration will support us. Another visit to them today is planned after Sam arrives and we’ve polished off the bubbly in the fridge.

The large scale weather patterns don’t call for a departure for Fiji this month. There is one low pressure system heading this way that looked to give us a possible kick up north but there is then several hundred miles of a high pressure ridge (and hence low winds) to subsequently cross. Not encouraging. The next low a week from now which is project to be further south shows more promise. You can be sure I’ll be watching how the forecast develops.

Auckland Errands

Paul, having spent the night with us, was very helpful in giving me a ride to the Icom service center here in Auckland. It turned out to be a lot further away than I expected so I was very glad of the ride. On the way back he dropped me off at the lift raft service center. His car wasn’t big enough to take the life raft so I opted to complete the trip back by taxi.

Despite the manufacturer stating we should service the life raft every two years this was the first time we did so. I was shocked to see how much was replaced but pleased to learn what was actually in with the life raft. There is quite a substantial set of flares contained which will complement those we have in the cabin in case of distress where we don’t need to leave the main boat. Flares do have a limited lifetime so it was good we had this service done now. Of course, it is important we have a life raft that works in the unhoped for event we need it.

Once the life raft was installed into it’s slot I walked over to the workshop near Pier 21 to give them our desired lengths for the kauri trim we want to prevent our next microwave from sliding off it’s home.

After that it was time for lunch. We ate a very delicious sushi then headed off to the supermarket for our first round of provisioning. On this trip we only took what we could carry the mile or so back to the boat. (Today we’re going again but returning by taxi)

In the afternoon I made the 45 minute return walk back to the work shop to pick up our trim. It looked really nice. Had a quick chat with Pam from Passages who appeared to welcome a quick break from polishing the boat sides.

In the afternoon I managed to work out a new plan to have our mainsail attended to. We’d already decided to return to the Viaduct Marina for when Sam arrives 11 days from now. We changed our booking to come in a day early and arranged a hire car so we can drive up to Whangarei and have it sorted there and then. The last thing I want is a weather window to appear and have to miss it because we need to get up to Whangarei to have our sail fixed. The sailmaker has agreed to this so we’re all set.

Incidentally, a fantastic weather window opened for Fiji yesterday. Pity we’re not in a position to take it. Particularly considering the southerly winds we have right now have brought a bit of a chill.

Early evening Ed from A Cappella dropped by. We’ve not seen him for a year so it was nice to catch up. They have a similar plan to us for the next couple of year so we’ll be still in touch with them for a while. There is a special tie amongst all those we crossed the Pacific with in 2010 and it’s nice to keep in contact.

Around 7pm past crew(wo)man Lissa visited with sister Megan. It was nice to see them again. They’d been invited out to Waiheke for the weekend but can’t make it. She does a lot of wedding photography so weekends are inevitably busy. We shared pizza and stories. Nice evening.

Auckland Celebration

We decided not to wait for the wind to pick up only to discover that the wind picked up just as we left. Perfect. We had a fantastic sail down to Auckland. There is something special about bringing your boat into a city and this was no exception.

I had a lot of excitement when Dignity showed up on the www.marinetraffic.com. Kind of cool to think how that was working. Our AIS transponder was putting out digital information over the VHF which was being picked up by a station in Auckland. That information was being published on the internet. www.marinetraffic.com was displaying that information showing where we were (and where we’ve been) and we were picking that up using our vodafone dongle to connect to the internet from the boat while in motion. Not the most effective way to find out where we were but all pretty cool.

The links above (both the same) will zoom in our location. If Dignity is there in the center it means our transponder is on and we’re close to one of the receiving stations.

We had booked a berth at the Viaduct Marina ahead of time. As a swing footbridge has been built across the entrance to the marina we had to call ahead to have it raised. It turned out it already was raised so we came in as another boat was departing. Once we saw where we had been allocated we spent a little while getting the fenders and lines set up and then backed in. The security guard helped us tie up. He even did proper cleat hitches which you don’t see often.

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Once settled we headed off for a walk. We went around the dock and over to the marine shops west of us. We picked up a part for the dinghy and found a place who can make up some trip that we can use to prevent our next microwave (that Sam is bringing) falling off in the same way the last one did. The trim will be made of kauri wood which will be a special reminder of New Zealand once we leave.

We bumped into Pam and John from Passages who were on the hard near the place where we found the trim and chatted for a while. We’ll meet up with them properly the night before Sam arrives.

Back on the boat we prepared for Paul’s and his son, Tom’s, arrival. It was good to meet up with them both. Paul had just struck a couple of work deals which was a good excuse to celebrate. We did.

Gearing up to clear out

The current opportunity to sail south is looking better and better so unfortunately for Lissa, our new crew member, she’s not going to get much time in Fiji before we leave. With that in mind we took her out snorkelling on the same two patches we went to with Anne and John back in August. The water is now a few degrees warmer which was nice. We saw abundant fish at both locations but no octopii this time.

We ate lunch ashore and then left for Saweni Bay where we are now anchored.

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The winds were quite strong initially and we were bombing along at 8-9 knots before we encountered wind shadow from the land and had to motor.

We’re now just around the corner from Lautoka where we’ll move quite soon and clear out of the country.

Yesterday evening we got in contact with Passages who turns out to be just around the corner and are committed to leaving this weekend too. We’ve agreed a contact schedule with them so we can stay in touch each day. The anchorage here is quite full so I suspect a lot of boats are heading out this weekend.

Moce, Sota Tale

In the morning Brian and I went ashore to try and find a memory stick John from Passages had loaned us the night before containing some pictures of us. I’d handed to Helen to look after but it ended up being left on the table. Although the girl working the bar had seen it when tidying up it was nowhere to be found in the morning. We picked up some sandwiches for breakfast and returned to the boat. I popped over to Passages to give our apologies as I felt quite bad. They were just leaving so I said our goodbyes too. They’re planning to leave Fiji from Savusavu so the next time we see them will be in NZ.

Brian and his family spent the day off the boat. Ben completed his scuba certification with Brian and Janine joining him on his last dive. Helen and stayed aboard for the relaxing and reading. I was particularly stiff from the evening games the night before. For some reason the balls of my feet feel as though I’ve been kicking a wall.

Helen’s previous Spaghetti Bolognaise had gone down so well the first time it was a firm favourite for our last night all together. It didn’t disappoint.

This morning Holly and Brian took the Dignity fun ride up the mast – or at least as far as each were comfortable. I’d found a washer on the deck earlier on so I went up to inspect the rigging to see if anything had dropped off anywhere. Everything looked fine so we have a new mystery.

By 8am we were ashore with all the family’s luggage. We had a final breakfast together before they boarded the 9am launch to go ashore. Under the guidance of the staff we all bid each other Moce, Sota Tale (Fijian for Goodbye, See You Again) while a guitar player sang Isa Lei, the Fijian farewell song.

We’ve had a good time with Brian and his family but now we need to detox and rest. First we took a walk around the island to work off a bit of breakfast and we’ve vowed, for today at least, to lay off the beer and wine.

Now begins the end game of our stay here in Fiji. For today this means I have begun the detailed weather watch on the area from Australia over to New Zealand and up to here. As the weather systems travel from west to east I can watch the systems leave Australia and cross the Tasman sea. Over the next few weeks I will become more familiar with the patterns and better able to pick a departure window late this month. This will become a daily exercise.