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by KC2RIY, on May 23rd, 2011 ( Boree, Fiji, Tahina, True Companions) Our final approach to Savusavu, Fiji could not have been much better. Granted, it was misty and a little wet at times but the wind was just about spot on. The wind angle wasn’t quite right as we approached Lesiatheva Point so we went wing on wing for about 15 minutes to build a better angle. We then went back to a broad reach and rounded the point instantly receiving calm waters. Even though we were now behind the hills we had a brisk close haul to Savusavu dropping the sails just a few minutes out of the creek.
By then Paul and Helen had set the lines so we could attach to a mooring ball. We’d already decided we wanted to be on one of the white balls of the Copra Shed concession as this was a ‘yachtie’ hangout and we wanted use of their dinghy dock. As we passed by the Copra Shed (before 2pm) many of our friends were already sharing beers and gave us a cheer. We’d heard some of their stories indirectly and although our passage was nowhere near as bad we’d had our trials and tribulations. To be welcomed in thus was immensely uplifting.
We were guided to a free mooring ball by a local in a skiff which turned out to be less than good as we almost fell back onto another boat. We moved to another and secured ourselves. The chap in the skiff said he was off to fetch the officials. I asked to be given a little time as I wanted to attend to our shaft seal leak first and then tidy up (ie, put a few boxes away) before we were boarded.
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A few of our friends popped by to give us the rundown on how to greet the officials. It all confirmed the ‘intelligence’ we’d gained while in the yard in Whangarei. We put on our best clothes, made everything nice and waited in the sweltering heat for them to arrive. They took a while so we cracked open a beer each and savoured the pleasure of first post-passage quaff. You have to have traveled a thousand+ miles of wild ocean to understand the pleasure.
First came the quarantine guy along with a medical student just about to graduate from 5 years study at the local hospital. The paperwork was a formality and the student performed the ‘inspection’. In reality this was his way of getting to see passage making boats and we were more than happy to let him look around as well as take pictures with us in the boat.
Next came customs and environmental. They were incredibly friendly but had a mountain of forms to fill in. We declared the legal limit of booze as well as respecifying absolutely everything on the boat that we had declared in our prearrival forms sent a month earlier. The environmental guy had a quick check around the boat and informed Helen of what we were to do with our overseas food – ie, eat it on the boat – and our rubbish (where to dispose – not to eat).
After much wrist ache from all the form filling we were done. The skiff took some time to arrive so we begged their leave to get changed into our scruffs so we could work on getting the dinghy in the water. The health official chipped in and soon we had the kayak off the davits, the dinghy in the water and the motor on. It started first time. The environmental guy said this was an excellent omen for our stay in Fiji.
Their skiff came just before we were able to take them in ourselves so we bade them farewell. We were soon in our dinghy and heading to shore. We’d already agreed to eat out with True Companions. We passed them by and borrowed some local currency (repaid later in the evening) had our quick chat then headed ashore to be welcomed by the crowd in the bar. Hugs and shakes all round we were soon into passage stories. It was riotous. We had a brief downpour and all headed inside for shelter. This was good news for us as it meant the salt was being washed off Dignity.
After a few very cheap beers, consensus eventually coagulated and were off to a surf and turf with the True Companions, Tahinas and Borees. It was one of the more expensive restaurants in town but the meal and drinks for three of us came in under US$40. Most of the other joints in town are, we were told, far cheaper and noone bothers to cook for a few days after arrival. We’re looking forward to trying some of these out.
After the meal we all headed back to Copra Shed and our dinghies and partied company. Despite our growing fatigue we cracked open the best bottle of brandy from our NZ duty frees and shared a glass together to celebrate our passage.
Paul has been an excellent crew member. He was competent with the boat but was quick to ask questions when there was uncertainty. There was no false bravado. We felt safe with him on watch and when working as a team on some of the more challenging moments. Above all he was great company.
After a very, very long day we retired. It was cruisers midnight. 9pm.
None of us remember putting our heads down. Sleep was upon us in an instant and we all slept a solid nights sleep.
We’re now ready for a brand new day in Paradise.
With winds down into the teens the bay we’re in was beginning to calm down but was still a little choppy when we left to go ashore. Feelings were high as the forecast was still showing a good window for departure on Thursday/Friday. We dinghied over to Passages, tied/locked the boat and transferred our last jerry can of fuel into the dinghies tank.
With another cruiser the five of us packed into John and Pam’s car and took the road south to Whangarei. Along the way we could see lowlands flooded by the recent rains but fortunately the road was open. In late January, I learned, the road had been closed for three days after an even heavier storm.
The day was very busy but we got everything done we needed to including a trip back to Norsand where we met the Sea Misters and Tahinas. It was late afternoon by the time we returned. And what a transformation from the morning/previous few days. The sun was out and the bay calm. We lugged everything from the car to the dinghy and took it back to Dignity. I passed everything up to Helen and left her to pack. I returned to the dock to help John go and collect his dinghy which was still over by the yard. It was much easier to tow than to row and I was glad to help.
Next, John took me to Pahia so he could pick up some beer (I did too) and I could fill my two jerry cans. I was shocked at the price not realizing it would be more expensive to fill two cans than the tank of the car we had all those months.
I was able to get the full cans back to the boat, help Helen put the dodger back on and then get back ashore just in time for the 6pm meet up I’d organized with cruisers willing to help run a radio net for the trip up. We shared a few beers in the cool evening air before having our brief discussion. We’ve agreed to run a simple position check in once in the morning and once in the evening 8am/8pm with the intent on providing a communication safety net for anyone getting into trouble. I stayed a while longer with the Delos boys catching up over a few more beers.
With almost everything done we need to get done to leave and with a similar sense from everyone else I was feeling pretty good.
Back on the boat almost the first thing I did was to pull down a new set of weather data to examine the evolving weather situation. I toggled between the latest forecast and the mornings data a few times just to be sure of what I was really seeing. The winds forecasted for mid passage have changed quite considerably. It’s looking like a fantastic trip for the motor boats as it’s light air now for days. Great for the motor boat guys but pretty lousy for us.
This was a bit of a blow to the day’s euphoria but it didn’t quite crush our spirits as we were marveling at the simplicity of the lack of wind and a boat that wasn’t being continuously tossed around. The prospect of a good nights sleep without alarms going off all night had a strong appeal.
I have looked at the weather forecast again this morning. I’m not feeling overjoyed. The weather patterns are controlled by what goes on in the upper atmosphere which tends to push things eastwards. Normally the highs and lows, while dancing around, generally make their way from Australia out over/around NZ and off to the east. A huge high is sitting around 158W. It’s been there a while is the forecasts have it stationary out for the next week. The low pressure system that brought all the recent nasty weekend weather is forecast to patrol the Tasman sea. North of the area between this high and low the winds are light and variable. That’s exactly where we want to sail.
The weekly McDavitt missive that came out a day late this week offers little comfort. The section providing direct comment our situation reads :
WHEN TO DEPART NZ FOR FIJI/TONGA?
Around the middle of the week there is a gap of lighter winds between the two lows-maybe OK for motoring north but not for sailing. From Thu to Sat, the showery NW flow ahead of L2’s trough will probably put off most cruising sailors. There is likely to be some assistance with a SW to SE wind change after that trough on late Sunday, but this may be interrupted by a period of light winds in a weak ridge. SO there appears to be NO great sailing voyages appearing at this stage.
One would think that at this stage it’s best to call off the plans for this week and get the reading book out. Perhaps. Probably. But it’s never that easy. We watch. We wait. We remain ready to go. As Bob likes to say “Weather is a mix of pattern and chaos” which basically means things could change. Who, in fact, has ever seen a forecast that is right?
Pwooof. That’s me blowing the dust of the cover.
Footnote: More on the weather. The current forecasts are showing all the signs of being in a particularly ill conditioned state. Meaning, that small changes in the input parameters can lead to large changes in the model output. My view is supported by the large change in model outputs that we saw occur yesterday, some of Bob’s comments which related to model inconsistency and comments from a local cruiser who’s been monitoring the weather here for 15 years. It all supports the notion that right now we’re into making day to day decisions on when to leave. It could be this week. It might not.
by KC2RIY, on April 19th, 2011 ( Albatross III, Attitude, Blue Penguin, Boree, Callisto, Division II, El Regalo, Imagine, Jackster, Leu Cat, Marquesa, New Zealand, Proximity, Sail Away, Scream, Sea Mist, Sidewinder, Tahina, True Companions, Zephyrus) What a day. We started the day with one last wash. The genset started ok but not with the zest we know it can with a good power supply. It’s battery was getting tired. A quick decision was made and it was off to the battery store to buy and then install a new battery. When I moved the original battery I tucked it way out of the way which meant pulling loads of stuff out of the generator compartment and then squeezing myself into a very tight place to work. Glad we did that as the genset starts perfectly now.
Next task was to head for Opua to sell the car back to Phil from Cars for Cruisers. I had an agreement with Rob and Ruth from Albatross III to head up to Opua too and give me a ride back. Just before leaving we bumped into a young lady from the NE US whose on a traveling trip and was looking for passage up to Fiji. We offered to take her up to Opua and back to investigate things there and learn a bit more about making what she was trying to do work.
On arriving in Opua I let Lauren off to explore the area and agreed to meet up at the Fish and Chip shop at noon where I’d promised to buy lunch for everyone for helping out. The deal with Phil went through smoothly and soon I was walking away with a cashable check.
While waiting for Lauren to show up I bumped into Andy from Zephyrus which was a pleasant surprise. We chatted for a while and I asked about people looking for crew. He had a good lead and shared it with Lauren when she found us. About 12:30 Rob and Ruth turned up having seen some friends. Unfortunately the Fish and Chip shop in Opua had closed down so we headed off to Pahia for the banks and shops there. Half way there I realize I’d left my GPS unit somewhere so we headed back finding it with Phil.
Leaving the others to look around I first went to Westpac to cash the check using my passport to prove my identity. She had to call Phil to verify the check was ok to cash and he approved with the caveat I owed him a GPS unit. She found the explanation of his remark quite funny. My next stop was the ANZ bank to deposit most the cash keeping enough to pay for our new kayak.
With all the financials handled I found the others and bought all Fish and Chips on the waterfront which turned out to be overfilling but delicious.
Rob took us north out of Pahia for a different route back to Whangarei. A few miles out of town I realized I didn’t have our folder containing our boat papers and passports. Not again. So back into town we went. I checked first at the Westpac. The teller grinned hugely and went to the safe to retrieve my passport. I found the folder in the ANZ where I’d left it. Where was my head???? I checked to make sure it was still in the right place physically. I think my brain had already set sail.
No more mishaps beset us as we traveled back to Whangarei. Rob helped me collect the kayak which we placed on the boat. Helen had spent the day making a clean boat immaculate for the evening’s party. By now there was not much time left. I performed a few small jobs around the boat before showering and soon after folks began to show.
All in all we had the pleasure of welcoming the crew from Albatross III, Attitude, Blue Penguin, Boree, Callisto, Clara Katherine, Division II, El Regalo, Imagine, Jackster, Leu Cat, Marquesa, Proximity, Sail Away, Scream, Sea Mist, Sidewinder, Stray Kitty, Tahina, True Companions and Tyee along with one or two marina neighbours. That was about forty people at once. It was a great test of our through hulls as we were down about 6-9 inches in the water. We didn’t sink.
This morning we woke fairly early and after doing last minute internetty things we dropped of our key to the shower block and headed out. As we headed down the river the winds were light and behind us. And cold. We motored on batteries alone for about 30 mins before turning on the generator. Near the river mouth we caught sight of True Companions ahead of us and called them on the radio to greet them.
As we rounded the heads we hit a dead patch and used the opportunity to raise the new main. We crossed our fingers hoping for wind as we really wanted to see how our new sails would perform. We didn’t have to wait too long and soon we were in winds that were to vary between 10-20 knots as we headed up the coast. We were gobsmacked by the improved boat performance. Before the boat speed would fade below about 12 knots under main and jib. Now she was achieving above 1/2 wind speed all the way down to 9 knots on the beam. We’ve never seen it so good.
We have found a couple of issues. The reef points on the new main are higher up than before and now the 1st reef only has a turn of spare line at the winch which is not enough to reef on the fly. We also have new modes of vibration on the luff of the main which we need to figure out how to handle. Apart from that everything seems to be in amazing shape. It feels like we have a new boat.
Our original plan had us making our way up the coast in smaller steps. With reduced wind tomorrow and nasty northeasterlies forecast for Friday we’re aiming to cover as much distance as we can today and complete the trip to the Bay of Islands tomorrow where we can find shelter from any type of wind. Our goal for today is the Whangamumu Bay which we visited last November.
We’ve now settled into a pleasant sail up the coast putting on and taking off our warm clothes as the sun goes in and out. We have about a knot of counter current but we’re doing well against it. We even have a line out for fish but nothing caught yet. We’ve shed the land life and are back on the water.
by steve, on April 15th, 2011 ( Leu Cat, New Zealand, Sea Mist, Tahina) Splashing / launching went well. With the Tahina’s (including ex-crew Paul who we’d met in Kelefesia) and Sea Mist’s looking on we were trailered down the ramp into the water. We sat there while I went through my checklist. Of particular focus was all our through hulls, particularly the genset water exhaust. I’ve done a fair bit of plumbing in my time and I have to confess, as far as I can recall, I have yet to have a leak on a pipe connection. This was not the time to blaze new trails.
Everything worked fine. I gave the ok and lines were thrown aboard and we back out into the river. The tide was already ebbing but the river was flat. I don’t have any written records of past performance but our speed through the water was significantly better than we’ve ever seen before. One would hope so having had the bottom painted, the props tuned, the couplings changed and the motors realigned. This makes us all the more eager to see how things have improved with our new, larger headsail and roach improved main.
We edged into the marina as light was falling and tied off to the dock. I was not given permission to crack a beer until I’d connected up to the water supply. We dined lavishly on fried egg sandwiches and a glass of wine before heading to the showers. I took a brutal scrubbing brush to tackle the yard grime embedded into my feet. I think I’ll need to grow new skin before by feet fully return to their proper colour.
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So does that mean we can now relax for a bit. Not really. Helen’s genetically encoded war on dirt is poised for full expression. With the infinite battalions of yard dust out of the picture a new balance can and will be obtained. I have one final round of shaft seal inspections to perform and then I have to put in place the final two batteries. We’ll transfer our the remaining diesel in our cans to the main tanks to give us the chance of deferring a fuel stop until we can buy duty free. There are other things to do. I’m just not thinking about them right now.
A little further ahead we plan to take the car up to Opua on Tuesday. The Tahina’s have offered us the use of their car for the day. The plan is we’ll drive to Opua in convoy with the Leu’s and return in the one car. On Wednesday we’ll head down the river and on Thursday perform sea trials with the new sails and perform checks on the water maker. From then on it’s either up the coast to the Bay of Islands or straight up to Fiji depending on the weather patterns. Ironically there’s a chance of a weather window to Fiji 3-4 days from now but that may be just a little too soon for us. I’ll be watching this one closely.
For now, here again is the photo album containing a snapshot of a subset of what we’ve been up to.
I hope this is our last full day ‘status’ report of life on the hard. There’s an expression : “Life is hard in the yard.” It’s true.
- Wrote a launch checklist. Having played around with the underwater bits I want to be sure we catch any leaks as early as possible.
- Tied on new jib sheet protector. This is a line tied from a couple of meters up the mast down to the deck to keep the jib sheets away from the mast and being damaged.
- Installed new clamshell scoops.
- Visited the Town Basin Marina to confirm our intended Friday (that’s today !!!!) arrival and discuss location. Bumped into Darusha/Steve from Scream and Christa from Lileth.
- Tested the freezer. Not exactly a hard task. I simply turned it on.
- Put sea anchor away. Even though it needs another wash we’ve properly packed it in the bag and stowed it ready for unhoped for use.
- Cleaned deck/dive locker.
- Connected other end of exhaust hose (ie, the end not ultimately attached to the new through hull)
- Helped install the new anchor guard
- Tested the starboard motor. In doing this we had one of those “Oh No” moments. The zinc on the end of the prop was wobbling and so was the end of the on which it sat. Was the nut (the one we’d had pinned onto the shaft) on wrong? Was the shaft bent? I took two and a half expert oppinions and the general sense was the prop was running withing a hairbreadth of true and we had no problem. Phew.
- Attached and raised anchor
- Collected the new sails. In doing this I discussed options with the sail makers for the fitting. End result is they’re coming to the boat in the yard at 7:30am this morning. I took the sails as there was a possibility the boat may already be raised by then making it more awkward to get them aboard.
In the afternoon both Helen and I were both awash with fatigue. Perhaps it was coming down from the adrenalin of the wobbly nut. After three weeks of dust and dirt and being a day from launch, the possibility of being delayed was not a pleasant one. But we kept on and energy did eventually renew.
One other event which could have been a lot nastier than it ended up occurred when I was taking a hard drive over to Tahina. I took a short cut under the some boats and was just about to jump a ditch when the firm footing for my take off turned out not to be firm at all. I plunged into the ditch arresting my fall with my shin on some rocks. There were scratches and numbness down my leg but no extra joints. The hard drive and my bones were intact so all else was secondary and a relief. Karen and Frank tended to my condition by preparing soapy swabs to clean the dirt out of the wounds and giving me a big band aid (which later took off a lot of hair) for the main bash. I refrained from taking any further short cuts for the rest of the day.
The external work is now more or less complete. The anchor guard is now in place and the anchor chute epoxied. We’ve had bigger screws put into the mast based and have had propspeed applied to the props and shafts. Bar one small section on the starboard side the sides of the boat have been polished.
The main entertainment for the day came from the launch of a multi million dollar power cat which didn’t go as smoothly as it could. The truck bringing it to the yard fractured in a few places and they had one big mistep (it appeared) when they placed it on the ramp above high tide. While it was interesting to watch from time to time our main interest in seeing it launch was to know there was no bloody great boat stuck in the ramp we’re due to exit on Friday (today !!!!!).
Towards the end of the day I dropped of a case of beer for the workers as a thank you. Turned out to be very welcome as Peter is taking them down the river this evening for a ‘booze cruise’ and this will add to the party.
We finished the evening by sharing grilled sausages and veg with Dennis and Allison from Kalida. We had a good time together and the evening ended off with their sharing some of the Fiji experiences and our taking notes on places to go.
Soon.
Today, if you hadn’t guessed, is launch day. The sails will go on. The polishing complete. The dinghy raised. The boat raised and rudders fitted. This afternoon we’ll be off.
Oh. How can I forget. I uploaded pictures of the concert/wetlands walk from last Sunday (you’ll need to go back). And I’ve uploaded some pictures of the boat work. Here.
I have a few more pictures to add and take so I’ll republish this album when it’s complete.
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