Our final approach to Savusavu, Fiji could not have been much better. Granted, it was misty and a little wet at times but the wind was just about spot on. The wind angle wasn’t quite right as we approached Lesiatheva Point so we went wing on wing for about 15 minutes to build a better angle. We then went back to a broad reach and rounded the point instantly receiving calm waters. Even though we were now behind the hills we had a brisk close haul to Savusavu dropping the sails just a few minutes out of the creek.
By then Paul and Helen had set the lines so we could attach to a mooring ball. We’d already decided we wanted to be on one of the white balls of the Copra Shed concession as this was a ‘yachtie’ hangout and we wanted use of their dinghy dock. As we passed by the Copra Shed (before 2pm) many of our friends were already sharing beers and gave us a cheer. We’d heard some of their stories indirectly and although our passage was nowhere near as bad we’d had our trials and tribulations. To be welcomed in thus was immensely uplifting.
We were guided to a free mooring ball by a local in a skiff which turned out to be less than good as we almost fell back onto another boat. We moved to another and secured ourselves. The chap in the skiff said he was off to fetch the officials. I asked to be given a little time as I wanted to attend to our shaft seal leak first and then tidy up (ie, put a few boxes away) before we were boarded.
A few of our friends popped by to give us the rundown on how to greet the officials. It all confirmed the ‘intelligence’ we’d gained while in the yard in Whangarei. We put on our best clothes, made everything nice and waited in the sweltering heat for them to arrive. They took a while so we cracked open a beer each and savoured the pleasure of first post-passage quaff. You have to have traveled a thousand+ miles of wild ocean to understand the pleasure.
First came the quarantine guy along with a medical student just about to graduate from 5 years study at the local hospital. The paperwork was a formality and the student performed the ‘inspection’. In reality this was his way of getting to see passage making boats and we were more than happy to let him look around as well as take pictures with us in the boat.
Next came customs and environmental. They were incredibly friendly but had a mountain of forms to fill in. We declared the legal limit of booze as well as respecifying absolutely everything on the boat that we had declared in our prearrival forms sent a month earlier. The environmental guy had a quick check around the boat and informed Helen of what we were to do with our overseas food – ie, eat it on the boat – and our rubbish (where to dispose – not to eat).
After much wrist ache from all the form filling we were done. The skiff took some time to arrive so we begged their leave to get changed into our scruffs so we could work on getting the dinghy in the water. The health official chipped in and soon we had the kayak off the davits, the dinghy in the water and the motor on. It started first time. The environmental guy said this was an excellent omen for our stay in Fiji.
Their skiff came just before we were able to take them in ourselves so we bade them farewell. We were soon in our dinghy and heading to shore. We’d already agreed to eat out with True Companions. We passed them by and borrowed some local currency (repaid later in the evening) had our quick chat then headed ashore to be welcomed by the crowd in the bar. Hugs and shakes all round we were soon into passage stories. It was riotous. We had a brief downpour and all headed inside for shelter. This was good news for us as it meant the salt was being washed off Dignity.
After a few very cheap beers, consensus eventually coagulated and were off to a surf and turf with the True Companions, Tahinas and Borees. It was one of the more expensive restaurants in town but the meal and drinks for three of us came in under US$40. Most of the other joints in town are, we were told, far cheaper and noone bothers to cook for a few days after arrival. We’re looking forward to trying some of these out.
After the meal we all headed back to Copra Shed and our dinghies and partied company. Despite our growing fatigue we cracked open the best bottle of brandy from our NZ duty frees and shared a glass together to celebrate our passage.
Paul has been an excellent crew member. He was competent with the boat but was quick to ask questions when there was uncertainty. There was no false bravado. We felt safe with him on watch and when working as a team on some of the more challenging moments. Above all he was great company.
After a very, very long day we retired. It was cruisers midnight. 9pm.
None of us remember putting our heads down. Sleep was upon us in an instant and we all slept a solid nights sleep.
We’re now ready for a brand new day in Paradise.
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