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Kilkea II « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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(Not So) Grand Melanesian Hotel

We’re here at the Grand Melanesian Hotel which would be better called the Functional Melanesian Hotel. No complaints. It’s good for what we paid.

We’ve had a good day. It was great having David and Marion along from Kilkea for the drive from Suva. We ended up in Port Denaru where they are berthed. Couldn’t help having a couple of beers (multiple wines in Helen’s case) aboard before we all went for dinner in the tourist center there. A little intense after what we’ve been used to but a change is a change. We ate Italian and enjoyed it.

So now we’re in the hotel not too far from Nadi Airport. We know from checking online that Anne and John’s flight has departed and it’s schedule to arrive about 5:30am in the morning. I’m not going to blog at that time so here it is earlier than normal.

A Wild Night in Suva

We had our morning trip to town. I did pick up some clothes, though less than I had intended. We did pick up some local craft for gifts though not yet enough. At least that’s progress. We ate a rather mediocre lunch in one of the many food courts in town before picking up some frozen food and returning to the boat. In the afternoon Helen went into her final round of cleaning in parallel with baking some cakes and muffins. I did my part by staying well out of the way. In the evening we watched a movie.

I nice surprise after the movie was getting into email contact with David and Marianne from Kilkea II. There boat is in Denarau near the airport and they were planning on taking the bus back today. The upshot is that we’ll now be taking them and having the pleasure of their company for the ride.

That could have been it for the day but it wasn’t. We were woken in the night by the boat shifting 30-40 knots of SSW wind which had blown up from nowhere it seemed. We’d dragged about 150ft before the anchor had reset. Fortunately we had room but we were now closer to another boat than we cared. The sudden wind had the bay to work over and soon a bit of a chop had picked up making the situation a little worse. In cold, driving rain we let out about 30ft more chain which, when anchored in 10ft of water, is quite a lot.

Worse was yet to come. One of the other boats hailed Suva Port Control reporting one of the commercial vessels in the harbour had gone adrift and was bearing down on the anchorage. Looking about we could see the vessel sliding sideways relative to us. Port Control advised the calling vessel to move out of the way. He was in the middle of engine repairs and was immobile. The upshot was that the huge commercial vessel came under control within 2 feet of the calling yacht. Their crew had their life jackets on and were prepared to jump should the worse come to the worse. Quite a scary moment.

This morning we’ll be moving Dignity onto the slip that’s been prepared for us. After last night I’ll be glad we’ll be leaving Dignity safely tied to the slip rather than out here.

Socializing ….

Some folks left the anchorage (Tahina, Dreamtime), a couple more arrived (Passages, Scream). Mike from Callisto popped by to invite us to drinks Thursday night. Steve & Darusha popped by and invited us for dinner Friday night.

During the day we just amused ourselves aboard the usual way. I decided to condition the batteries and ran the generator for most of the morning. I had planned to do more routine checks of the boat but put it off to today.

Drinks aboard Callisto was fun and went on til late. Also there the Kilkeas and Passages’s.

It’s nice here but we need to get out. All this socializing is hard on the body. The bloodstream at least.

Lavena Coastal Walk

15 cruisers (including us) got together yesterday to take the bus down to Lavena and walk the coastal walk. We had mixed information about the bus departure time which ranged from 9am to 10am. The most specific advice was that it was due at 9:15 but we could have to wait until 10am. We were all ashore by 9:30 and caught the bus at 10:30. It’s called Fiji time by the locals.

The bus was the typical open window (ie, no window) kind which offered a cool breeze and fantastic views of the coast and the villages we passed through. After an hour or so we reached the village of Lavena where we paid to enter the Bouma National Heritage Park and for a couple of guides to take us on the trail.

The trail took about hour and a half to reach the waterfalls at the end. The pace was slow to allow chances to listen to the guide tell us about a few of the things we could see and to take photos. The final section of the path took us up to a shaded spot on a river where we stopped for a swim and to eat lunch. From this spot we could see one of two waterfalls a little way up the river. We swam up to the bowl beneath this waterfall where we were able to see a second waterfall pouring into the same bowl which was not previously visible. Of our group I was the only one to climb the slippery rocks behind our guide and slide down the slick chute created by the second waterfall.

After our swim we rested and had a bite to eat before following the trail back to the starting point. Our return was a quite a bit quicker as we had no need to stop so often. By now school was out and we were greeted by happy, smiling children. It’s wonderful to see the innocence of small kids not having had to be scared off by the boogeyman of strangers.

We headed back to Matei in two minivans and decided to eat at one of the local restaurants. The food turned out to be delicious. Helen and I ended up on Kilkea after the meal where we were plied with beverages that are still working their way out of my head.

On the maintenance front we progress slowly. Permissions have been sought and now fully granted to have the Lagoon techs perform the work in the Norsand yard. We’re close to knowing if/when/where the replacement charger will be sent and we should soon have the details of the sex-change worked out.

Having made the decision to slow down and spend the whole season here in Fiji there is no stress involved in staying put for a while in one place. We’re really enjoying the beauty and tranquility of Taveuni as well as this breezy anchorage. Sharing time with our friends here makes the experience priceless. So all is good.

Even better, we’ve received confirmation from our good friends, Anne and John, that they will be with us early August. Much to look forward to.

25th, East of the Line

Once the sun was well up I headed out to say hello to some of the new arrivals in the anchorage and make sure the folks who hadn’t received my earlier email knew they were invited. I didn’t have to go too far as we ended up with a few dinghies/kayak congregated around Gerimar so I managed to get the word out.

While there, six local officials/policemen came out in a fishing skiff to inspect the paperwork of the boats here. We came to the conclusion they were bored and wanted to see the boat show in the anchorage. Only one fellow did any paperwork / inspection and all were very friendly and keen to look around.

After this unexpected interlude Helen and I went out to snorkel one of the nearby coral patches. On the outside of the reef the water was fairly clear and the coral diverse and abundant. The fish were small but colourful and we managed to see a beautiful but dangerous (to the reef) crown of thorns starfish.

After our swim we went over to the lobster pot. The only thing in it was the extremely stinky fish frame which had now collapsed and got stuck in pieces in the netting. It was a disgustingly smelly job to clean it all up. It took me a while to get the awful smell off my fingers.

In the evening we had our public anniversary party. Along came the Borees, Callistos, Dreamtimes, Gerimars, Jaranas, Kilkeas, Tahinas and True Companions for a fun evening. Bert from Boree made us all smile with a bit of a speech presenting Helen and I with hats they’d made earlier in the day appropriate for the celebration.

Quite a few of us are interested in going down the coast to the Bouma National Park, some to see the falls we’ve already seen and some to do the coastal trail. So it looks like today a crowd of us will go down on the public bus returning by taxi. Should be fun.