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Deshaies Botanical Gardens

Yesterday afternoon, when Helen and I were walking around town we bumped into a group of four englishfolk: Graden, Sue, David and Margaret who were chartering the sailing boat “Clarabella.” I had bumped into Graden on one of my earlier attempts to clear in. We ended up inviting them around for cocktails later in the evening. It was nice to have them over and speak some English with some of our fellow countrymen.

This morning we walked up the hill to the Botanical Gardens. On the way (and on the way back) we tried again to clear in but customs remains resolutely closed at all times of day.

The gardens were spectacular. Countless varieties of tropical plants were on display. The layout was very similar to a curvy Ikea but there the comparison ends. It was pleasurable for a start. On entering the gardens we were greeted by a coy pond full of ravenous and massive coy. For a few cents you can feed them and they know it.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxtOHxW7HIQ[/youtube]

The rest of the gardens were a delight to walk through. Not sure if I can really cut this down so here follows a lengthy slide show.

And here is another video clip of a plant which reacts to being touched.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7QF-Ybas3c[/youtube]

By end of this morning the weather had turned a little drizzly. Having scoured the town for fresh bread (there was none) we headed back to the boat for lunch. If the weather clears this afternoon, we’ll go for a walk along the Deshaies River. This evening, we may just eat out to treat ourselves.

Deshaies

(Pronounced Dey-hey)

What a beautiful little town this is. We arrived about 11am this morning after a pleasant sail from Ilet a Fajou. We went straight ashore for customs but found them closed. We had a quick explore around town. We’re very much looking forward to basing ourselves here for a few days. I’ve been back to try customs but they still weren’t open. We’ve managed to get a few daytime pics.

As we’ve found an internet connection we can play catch up with our albums.

Trip to Guadeloupe & Port Louis

Grande Riviere & Ilet a Fajou

Around Deshaies

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Mangroves and Brain Coral

The rain cleared this morning and we have since had fabulous weather. We too the dinghy over to Ilet a Fajou to explore the coast. Inland was impenetrable as the foliage was too dense. So we waded along the shore for a while. We found a place to stop for a while where the water sloshed around a clump of mangroves creating a mini-strait between. I couldn’t resist damming one side of this and watching how this changed the flow of water.

After lunch we dinghied out to the reef to snorkel. Helen wasn’t feeling too well so she stayed on the dinghy while I took to the water. The reef was not bad: plenty of brain corals, anenomes and reef fish. Found one live conch but left it in place. I am reminded we need to learn how to open and cook a conch.

A slow day is closing slowly. We’re now looking forward and moving on to Deshaies tomorrow. Forecast looks good for the trip.

Maybe tonight we’ll watch another movie. Last night we watched The Doors movie by Oliver Stone which was long but entertaining, particularly as we watched it out back with the stars around us.

Bread

Bread was a success. Sort of. Turns out the bread make sends off an alarm when it starts. Alarms on boats are things to wake up for so at 3am the bread maker woke me up – a condition from which I could not recover. Helen, fortunately went back to sleep but for me it was a restless time. It was worth it though because the bread, fresh in the morning, was delicious. The hit on my Amp Hours was a bit steep so this will have to remain a luxury.

Today our plans are to explore Ilet a Fajou and to go snorkeling on the reed. Right now both are out because it is raining. So I’ve spent this morning downloading my first set of NOAA weather faxes. I want to be comfortable with them for when we really need them so it’s a good time to start practising now.

Starfish & Cucumber City

The dinghy ride along the Grand Riviere a Goyaves was out of this world. The river started off surrounded by mangroves. The transition from choppy sea to calm water was abrupt and we were surrounded by silence broken by the odd jumping fish. It was so tranquil. We also saw a turtle basking on a log – very much like the snappers we used to see back in New Jersey. We traveled over three miles up the river where the mangroves had changed to bamboo and other foliage which in turn broke into fields
with grazing cattle and fields of sugar cane.

We backtracked to where there was an old dock set into the side of the river to eat our sandwiches and drink lemonade.

Here is a track of our trip. Right now the satellite imagery is low resolution for most of the map but one day it may improve.


View Larger Map

Back on the boat the flies had won the decision as we had more than we cared for aboard. So we headed off pretty much straight away to the west side of Ilet a Fajou. This is Starfish & Cucumber City as all around us in the sands are countless starfish and sea cucumbers as we confirmed when we went snorkeling for half an hour. The anchorage is heaven. We have a reef to the north which we intend to snorkel tomorrow. To the west the mountains of Bass-Terre rise majestically – the taller ones obscured by the weather they create. To our south and east lies Ilet a Fajou, a mangrove covered island peppered with the odd beach that invites us to explore. The sea is turquoise with patches of darker turtle grass and brown reefs. Just awesome. We’re going to stay here two nights. Being a Sunday the area was a little crowded (if you can use the word) with the boats of a few locals. As of writing most have already left for home, the rest I assume will leave soon leaving us all alone out here. Bliss.

I am now feeling so happy with the battery and charger set up I feel like doing something extravagant. Tonight we’ll set up the bread maker to wake us up with fresh bread. Heaven in heaven. Except it’ll be more like torture as I’m sure I’ll now wake at 4:30 to the smell of baking bread and be driven insane. Problems, problems.

I have a habit of checking. Both of our anchorages today had no wireless internet signals at all – even using my most sensitive antenna. It’s nice to be off the web.

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