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Fiji « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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Out and About

In the morning we took a walk around Nanuya Island this time going around anti-clockwise. This meant we walked along the beach first, quickly, trying to avoid the passengers soon to disembark from the Blue Lagoon cruise ship. This was all timed for low tide so we could wade through the mangroves between Nanuya and Turtle Island. After a scramble over the rocks we visited the tea shop but found it closed. We returned through the backpackers resort on the east coast and along the path over the top of the hill above the Nanuya Island Resort. There we tried to book a meal for the evening only to find the place fully booked.

Later on in the morning everyone bar me went for a snorkel off the reef near to the beach used by the cruise ship. There the fish appear to be hand fed so are quite abundant and not shy. I had a few things to sort out so I got on with that.

After lunch everyone fell asleep – life aboard is after all quite exhausting. Later I took Brian and his family back to the nearby village to give two photos we’d printed (thanks Colin again for the paper) and a small donation for the church fund. We were again invited into Seine’s home for a short while.

After this we went for another snorkel on the reef off the resort which turned out to be merely ok. In the evening we ate aboard then watched a movie.

Today we’re heading north to Sawa-I-Lau where we’ll visit the caves and take some gifts to the school.

The (still) Blue Lagoon

We left Treasure Island as soon as we could with about 10 knots of wind behind us. We managed to sail along between 4 and 5 knots for a couple of hours before the wind died on as and we began to motor. Seemed like a typical crossing to the Yasawas.

As we were motoring through calm seas we have four fishing lines out. We were first rewarded with a skipjack tuna. Helen and I would normally throw these back or save it for a village. Brian was interested in tasting it so I fileted it keeping the head in a bag. Later we caught a handsome baracuda. This time Brian got to filet the fish which now became the target for our evening meal.

The last couple of hours of the trip the wind returned. By then we’d already made our minds up to go as far as the Blue Lagoon. We were racing along at 8 knots and could have made it to Sawa-I-Lau in another hour or so but the kids weren’t faring so well and everyone was getting keen for a rest.

We sailed right into the anchorage. The last mile or two were fantastic as we had the wind but no swell.

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We tidied the boat and after a quick post passage beer five of us (Helen staying behind) took to the dinghy to visit the village of Matacalevu across from us. Brian had brought some batteries for the chief handheld VHF as we’d determined his old one (last time we were here) were bad. We also had brought the fish heads and most of the filets from the skipjack as gifts. I always feel odd giving fish heads to people as I would not exactly be thrilled if a stranger came up to me and gave me two fish heads in a bag. But the Fijian’s love them so it would be a waste to throw them away.

We had a brief visit to the chiefs hut spending a short while inside. In thanks for the fish and batteries Janine, Ben and Holly were given some shell jewelry. On the way back to the dinghy we were invited into another home of a lady, Seina (I think), who was preparing to receive a pair of visitors from the resort we were anchored off. We were soon sucked into a bit of a savoury feast. Brian managed to polish of quite a lot of food while the rest of us were a little more restrained. After all, Helen was back on the boat preparing the fresh baracuda for our evening meal. Seina had 5 children and 2 nephews in and and about and some were fascinated with us, particularly Holly who is quite pale. Janine and Holly were given garlands of Frangipanis, something which would cost a fortune back home.

The dinghy ride back to Dignity was into wind and a bit of a repeat of the previous evenings soaking. Nevertheless the thrill of the village visit was not dampened, even if we were.

The fish dinner came out very well and was quite delicious. We had a bit of a mishap after when the handle fell off the saucepan when Janine was washing it off the back of the boat. I quickly made up our usual weights/line/float marker and dropped it in the 60 ft of water off the back of the boat. The line wasn’t quite long enough and the float ended up about 10ft underwater. We should be able to find it today though and I’ll have to get the scuba gear out to retrieve the saucepan.

We ended up the evening playing a few games of Fluxx which everyone enjoyed, even if the last game went on forever.

This morning I’ve dotted the i’s and crossed the t’s and signed off on our diesel conversion in New Zealand. This should now be set in stone (famous last words I know) but it’s good to know we’re now well progressed.

Back to Treasure Island

Our friends first full day in Fiji turned out to be fairly interesting although not without it’s comic disasters.

The morning was pretty sane stuff. We took the bus into Nadi where we ate breakfast. We then visited the market picking up some kava, fruit and veg. Next stop was the supermarket. I managed to negotiate two taxis into taking back to Denarau with all our shopping for $10 each. Not bad.

Soon we were off into a windless motor over to Treasure Island. We moored where we’d moored previously and ate lunch before we all went snorkeling. While snorkeling the sea chop began to slowly increase. Not a disaster at all but it took away the possibility of having nice flat seas to bob around in. This gave Holly a few problems with her snorkel but she struggled on.

After the group snorkel Brian and Janine swam ashore while Ben and Holly took the the kayak. The rest of the afternoon was spent resting while the swell built further.

By 4pm we’d had enough of the swell and decided to move around to the moorings on the far side of the island where, although the wind was now up to 20 knots, the sea was a little (but not much) calmer.

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Just before 6 we took the dinghy ashore. By now the waves had picked up further. We had to dinghy into the waves to reach the beach which meant we all got pretty soaked, particularly Janine who got most of the deluge. She ended up soaked through and had to buy a new dress for the evening. Ashore we dragged the dinghy high up the beach for protection and opened the drain to let all the water out.

We paid our mooring / landing fees and settle down for a drink by the pool. Although we’d discussed coming to dinner at 7pm with a number of staff we later learned the 7pm slot was fully booked and we had to wait to 7:30pm. We did eventually eat. Three of us order steaks which were supposed to range from rare to medium but all came fairly well done. Tasty but chewy.

We decided to return to Dignity for desert. We got into the choppy water without too much incident but by the time we approached Dignity I realized I hadn’t replaced the drain plug and we were filling with water. Too late to do anything about that. Dinghying down wind was a lot easier than before but turning to land everyone onto Dignity placed us facing the chop again. Helen was first onto Dignity and first off it again as she lost her balance and fell into the water. She flew out of the water fairly quickly and the rest boarded the boat without further incident. We raised the dinghy allowing the copious amount of water to drain out.

Desert was banana flambee using some rum Brian and brought. Everyone was fairly exhausted and we all retired soon after.

Today we plan to sail as far north as we can. Hopefully we’ll reach Sawa-I-Lau but if not we should be able to reach the Blue Lagoon.

Ready to go

Just before 8am we moved the boat onto the dock. It requires a med style tie up where we have to drop the anchor and back in. At the time we had some squirly winds coming through which made controlling the boat in the tight space next to the big mega yacht, Nobel House, a little tricky. Worse still, I’d left the ratchet engaged when testing the manual deployment which meant the anchor didn’t drop. Helen couldn’t figure it out so I had to put the boat back into open water and sort the problem out.

Once secure I made my second trip to the airport. As it turned out, Tom on the boat to the other side of us was also going for the very same reason. We took the buses together and with my foreknowledge of the exact location of the immigration office we were able to make our way directly there. Obtaining the official letters allowing our respective crew to enter the country on a one way ticket turned out to be relatively painless as everyone who had to play a role in producing and signing it were there.

On the way back, via Nadi, we popped into the fruit market to pick up some (who’d have guessed) fruit.

It was midday by the time I returned. By then Helen had cleaned the deck and just about finished. We ate lunch, showered, then rested the afternoon. There were still a few things to do like filling up the spare can of fuel for the dinghy but not a lot.

In the evening Brian, Janine, Ben and Holly arrived. They were a couple of hours late due to complications at Sydney airport. Fortunately they had their luggage with them. We ended up staying up until nearly 1am in the morning chatting.

This morning we get busy. We’re off to Nadi for a look around and final provisioning. Once back on the boat we’ll be off. We have the possibility of half decent sailing over the next couple of days although the outlook is not as good as it appeared yesterday. By Thursday we lose the wind so we need to put some distance in before then.

In the Bilge

From time to time our starboard bilge alarm has gone off. We first noticed it coming up from New Zealand and it reappeared when our friends, Anne and John, were here. It went off again, the other day, after some of Helen’s cleaning efforts. The pattern suggested it was related to the starboard aft shower. I saw something similar to this on the port hull. The shower sump pump connects to a manifold shared with the secondary bilge pump. That means the shower water is only being held back from the bilge by the bilge pump valves. So I decided to take the valves out and clean it all up.

This turned out to be one of ‘those’ jobs. The pump has a good design in that the hoses have an easy release system. Then the bottom of the pump should be easy to remove by undoing the clamp that holds it on. Only it turned out the pump was mounted with the bottom against the inner hull so it couldn’t be removed. So I had to remove the whole pump. No problem. Only there was. To get to one of the screws to remove the pump I had to get past the sump pump for the forward shower which was in the way. So that had to be removed too. All this had to be done lying on my belly reaching down into the bilge which is not overly comfortable.

Having removed everything I disassembled the bilge pump and found it full of crud. I cleaned everything and sanded flat the metal plates and put it all back together. I had thought to rearrange the pumps to make access easier next time but I need a small electric drill, like a dremel, but I don’t have one. Getting the pumps pack on was extremely fiddly and I needed Helen’s help to pass things to me. Even then I needed three hands in spaces where only one would fit. Amazingly I finished the task without dropping a single thing into the bilge. This is extraordinary as I am convinced there are darker forces associated with bilges which suck vital objects into obscure corners and play tricks with your mind to make you flick things at the worst moment in random, unseen directions. Whether this all works or not we’ll soon know as our next set of friends arrive this evening.

One other bit of boat work, trivial in comparison, was to replace a bulb over the forward guest cabin bunk. Turns out these are the only two halogens left in the boat interior. Must have forgotten to replace them with LEDs. Another minor future project.

Later in the morning we went for a walk to the shop near the Sheraton and back. The rest of the day was R&R. I nailed another couple of Euler Problems then ran into a brick wall with a few more. I’m now 5 points away from the next milestone at 200 where I will cease to be classified as ‘Intermediate’. Something to aim for but the recent batch of low hanging fruit have been plucked and a little more thinking will be required to progress.

In the evening we splashed out to watch the England play while eating at the Hard Rock Cafe here. The wazzos had it on the wrong channel so we ended up watching the Fijian ‘wanted’ parade while England scored their first try. The match was rather scrappy and while England ratcheted up another win it was lackluster and shows us in need of significant improvement if we are to progress far beyond this easy group stage.

Today we have a few things to do. Soon we’ll be moving the boat onto dock next to ‘Nobel House‘ a mega yacht. I’ll make a return trip to the airport to try and sort out the paperwork with immigration while Helen gets busy with the hose. This evening our friends Brian, Janine and their kids fly in from Oz. Should be fun.