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Calitzdorp and Port Wine Tasting

Calitzdorp turned out to be a beautiful sleepy escape tucked in the middle of nowhere. The trip was not long and we arrived at our accommodation, the aptly named Port Wine Guest House, late morning.

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When we arrived we could find no one home so we strolled around the corner to the Boplass Winery for our first sampling. Despite being a free sampling the wines, ports and brandies were both delicious and copious. Knowing we have limited allowances to the UK we bought just one bottle of vintage port vowing that if we ever return, we’ll do so at the beginning of our trip, not near the end, so we can buy more of the very attractively priced wines.

When we returned (slightly staggered perhaps) to our accommodation we found the owner home and our room available so we were able to drop some of our gear off. The owner reassured us there was no crime in Calitzdorp and that we would be ok leaving most our stuff in the car. (It’s worth noting the houses still had bars on the windows and fearsome fences).

After a rest we headed out into town and followed a couple of historic walks around town we got from a printed guide. This took us back to our lodging so we continued on to our second tasting. Along the way we checked out the abandoned railway station only to find a surreal object one would normally find in Google Earth. See pics below for what I mean.

Our second tasting, at the De Krans winery, was shorter but perhaps more delicious than the first. We were consequently influenced to buy an 11 years old vintage port and a bottle of relatively inexpensive red plonk. We were out and about for over two hours walking continuously (except when sampling) so we had some good exercise.

After another return to our room we headed back into town to first hear the organist at the Dutch Reformed Church perform his 6pm daily recital. The organist was more interesting than his music as between each pair of songs he would come over and give us a flowing description of what he was about to play. To give a brief idea of this here is a short clip.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gxi0pZYywaQ[/youtube]

After the recital came dinner which we had just by the church.

Here are some more pics. As you can see, the weather has finally turned nice.

Oudtshoorn

We’ve spent the last two nights in Oudtshoorn in a delightful place called the Surval Boutique Olive Estate.

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We drove up from Plettenberg Bay, stopped for lunch in town, still arriving early for check in. The staff were good enough to take our weighty luggage and store it so we could play the tourist without fear of theft. We decided to head for the hills, specifically the Cango Caves. These are another set of limestone caves carved out over millions of years and now turned into a visitor attraction.

With a choice of a Standard Tour or an Adventure Tour we couldn’t resist the latter. After enough time to see a short movie of the area and look at the small museum we were collected by our charming (read ‘extremely camp’) guide. He was hilarious. He took our party deep into the cave system. The two tours start the same but the Adventure Tour gets an extra bit. That extra bit involves four ‘tunnels’ to negotiate, six if you count coming back through the first two.

The first (and last) were a very low squeeze which we had to negotiate in the cossack dance position. Being Africa we were provide no helmets as we would have done just about anywhere else. I guess the idea is is that if you bump your head it’s going to hurt so don’t. This section really tested our knees and I now believe I need new ones. For some odd reason this section was called the Tunnel of Love. On the website they still refer to this section as Lumbago Alley which is far more appropriate. Just not a tourist puller.

The next tunnel was called The Coffin as it was so low we had to give up all pretense of being on our feet and wiggle through on on our bellies at times.

And then it got worse as we had to wriggle UP the Devil’s Chimney. This required both arm and leg strength and a complete lack of claustrophobia. This tested my recovering fitness to the limit. At one point I thought I couldn’t make it but I didn’t give up. By now many of our party had given up and gone back, perhaps put off by turnarounds from the previous party. This gave the guides some challenges as they had to deal with folks heading off in different directions. I presume they are used this this chaos.

After the Devil’s Chimney we had to negotiate the Post Box. This was a belly crawl followed by a roll onto our backs and a slide through the lowest opening yet. With the guide now looking after our party’s turnarounds Helen and I had to negotiate this section without his instructions which made it a little more of a challenge.

We then had to get back through The Coffin and Lumbago Alley (Tunnel of Love remember). Then the long walk back through many, many steps and caves. We were exhausted by the end.

After returning to our accommodation we found ourselves pretty beat so after a rest we ate at the hotel restaurant, Su Casa.

Yesterday morning we visited the Safari Ostrich Show Farm. Here we were given a tour including a history of the farm and seeing a number of different breeds of ostriches. We learned that they really are bird brained, where each eyeball weighs 60g but their brain only weighs 40g. So they can see but they can’t remember what they see so they go around doing the same daft stuff all the time. Daft as they were, they still looked cute.

Towards the end of the tour we participated in a couple of ‘strength’ demonstrations. To demonstrate the strength of their eggshells, we were allowed to stand on some eggs. To demonstrate the strength of the birds, we were allowed to sit on one. All in the pics below.

We were lucky with the weather as it had rained all night and early morning. We took a gamble on the weather improving on the way to the ostrich farm and it did. The skies turned blue for us and the sun came out.

We headed back into town where a festival is running. It’s an Afrikaan Arts Festival which runs for about a week once per year. We had no idea this was on so we had a little walk around the town center and visited the CP Nel Museum in the center of town before returning to relax for the afternoon. We headed back into town in the early evening for a meal before returning to our room.

All in all it’s been a fun couple of days here in Oudtshoorn. Our aching bodies testify this.

Next stop Calitzdorp and port wine tasting.

Plettenberg Bay

Thursday was our last night (at least for this visit) in Grahamstown. We took Mum and spent the evening at Sue’s home. The next morning we sorted our final things out and left mid-morning with one quick stop, again, at Sue’s.

Our destination was Plettenberg Bay some 3 hours and 30 mins drive to the the west. We took a stop at Jeffrey’s Bay for lunch. We found a sushi bar looking out over the sea. More importantly it was covered, as the weather had been grim all morning.

Due to the weather we had no appetite for exploring so we pushed on to Plettenberg Bay, google maps flawlessly bringing us to our destination.
Yesterday, Saturday, the weather was only slightly improved. We stayed in for the morning and in the afternoon decided to try our luck with the combined Monkeyland / Birds of Eden attractions.

We’re very glad we did. For two reasons. The first is that they were both particularly good. The second is that the weather today is truly awful.

Monkeyland involved joining a group and being guided around a few acres of enclosed forest containing 10 species of primates. An not just monkeys, we had lemurs and apes too. We were lucky enough to see all 10 species.

Birds of Eden claims to be the worlds largest aviary and probably is. Inside there is a three dimensional pathway snaking down, up and across a verdant valley populated by many species of birds and a few more monkeys. Different areas were crafted into different habitats attracting different populations of birds. While we’re not bird watchers ourselves, we can believe this to be a twitchers paradise.

You may notice these photos are not as good as I normally take. My regular camera has failed due to a lens error – probably as a result of sand. Ironic really given where it’s been over the last few years. So these photos, taken in low light with my phone camera, are a bit fuzzy and grainy. I will have to decide soon if I should get the camera fixed or buy a new one. Any advice readers?

Today, with the weather as miserable as one would expect for the UK (joy), we’ve stayed in. We both feel as though we’ve picked up a bit of a cold – perhaps from one of the many children attracted to Monkeyland. We are hoping to go to the movies this evening to break the day a little.

The last two evenings we ate out. Friday night at a cheap Chinese which was as good as we paid. Last night we upped the ante and had a very palatable curry / pizza.

In Memory

Goodbye Dad

Yesterday we said goodbye to my Dad. After battling lung cancer for the last few years, he finally succumbed to the disease earlier this week.

He hung on to see through the final events that mattered to him in his life. His move into their cottage, my sister’s family move into their (Mum & Dad’s) old home, my sister’s 50th and seeing the family here in South Africa, complete with a new generation and a new betrothal.

We believe he enjoyed his last day. He watched the Grand Prix, a couple of episodes of ‘Allo ‘Allo which both he and Mum loved. We were able to show him panoramic photos of what Sue had managed to do with their old kitchen.

We had a commemoration and celebration ceremony at his old home led by a very close family friend, Father Larry Kaufman. Per the families wishes, it was non-religious, very human service. My brother-in-law introduced Larry to the close friends invited. Larry then took us through a formal commemoration of Dad’s life before lighting a candle to represent my father’s life. Then, the seven family members there, my mother, my sister, Max, Jay, Sarah, Helen then myself took turns to pass the flame from my father’s candle to another one of seven representing each of us before we each read our own eulogy. Very apt and very emotional.

We had one further euolgy from Barbara Bull, the families doctor and very close friend before Larry summarized and transitioned the formal ceremony into the celebration by toasting his memory and inviting everyone to tuck in.

I don’t know if my Dad planned it this way but he picked the perfect moment to move on. He maximized his time with us and left before Jay’s daughters marriage next week and our own planned departure tomorrow. It was so heartening to be there and to see all the support from their friends and to know Mum will be surrounded by a cadre who will provide her an active life. In fact, Mum is transitioning so well, perhaps it is them that will need the support as she really is ready to move on.

Hopefully this caps the spectre that has been hovering over this family for the last year, in all it’s forms. Full speed ahead.