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Tutukaka

We set off from Whangamumu fairly early with the intent of reaching Whangaruru before the tide turned allowing us the possibility of taking the dinghy up the nearby river. As we sailed down we changed our minds about the river trip and headed instead for the anchorage at Matapouri Bay quite a bit further south. Some strong northerlies were predicted and we wanted somewhere with protection from that direction. Keeping consistent we changed our minds again and eventually ended up in Tutukaka.

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The allure of being reconnected to the internet drew us in and the mountain of stuff to deal with had certainly piled up. Ben needed to make some changes to his website as it has compatibility issues with some browsers. He is getting some interest and needs to get everything properly working.

In the afternoon we went ashore to look around the marina area to see if this is a possible stop for Xmas. Thumbs are down on that front but it was pleasant enough. We found a store and picked up some essentials (bread, custard and ice cream) before returning.

On the way back to the boat we stopped by Emily Grace who are anchored here too. They’d just returned from a day out to Whangarei which is not too far from here. We ended up aboard chatting for a while. As it often does, the conversation came round to boat projects, issues. Tom talked about a chain of issues plaguing is water maker. It all started with an end cap failure like the one we suffered coming out of French Polynesia. In his case the water drenched the control board which suffered some nasty corrosion. Even though the control board has been replaced on warranty and with two days of help from another cruiser, his water maker still wasn’t working. With some experience in these matters I listened to his story and in particular to the history of symptoms. I asked his permission to try something out. With the wooden end of his hammer I tapped the feeder pump. We turned it on and all was working. My suspicion was correct. The sounds he described were just like those when our brushes began to fail. With the unit sitting for a few weeks not doing anything I felt there was a strong chance a tap would do the trick. It did. Tom was happy. I earned a smug grin for the rest of the day. Seriously though. After the hours of cursing and swearing dismantling my assembly and reassembling it, twice, I’m glad someone’s got the benefit of my knowledge learned the hard way.

This morning (and much of this afternoon) I’ve finally done my UK tax return. This has taken some heroic prevarication to get to this point plus a certain amount of long term catch up on vastly distributed paperwork. I’m pleased it’s done.

I’ve also managed to upload all our recent photos so the last few entries have been updated. I also updated yesterday’s text as I forgot to mention our afternoon encounters with the dolphins. That’s now in.

And. I guess you want to know if we caught any lobsters. I can confidently say that I won’t be saying “We caught no lobsters” this time. This is because what I’m going to say “We caught no crayfish” because that’s what they call them here. When in Rome …

Whangamumu Harbour

As we entered the harbour we were first approached and then overtaken by a customs vessel that eventually anchored right where we wanted. With nothing to hide and assuming they were stopping only for lunch (or perhaps to investigate us) we anchored right by them. As expected, they did drop their dinghy and a couple of officers came over and asked us the usual questions before leaving.

We were also followed into the natural harbour by a pod of dolphins which stayed there for the rest of the day unceasingly frolicking in the water. At first there were two other boats in the bay but they all left eventually leaving us alone in the bay with the dolphins as company.

After the customs guys had left I had a go at fishing and soon had two small fish aboard which Ben promptly dispatched with the application of rum to the gills. We left them in a bucket to rot a little as they were to be our lobster bait overnight.

Shortly after lunch we dinghied ashore to the old whaling station. From their we took the hiking trail west, over the ridge (with excellent views of the bay) and down the other side. Again, this hike took us through such changes in scene that it felt like we were in a lot of different places. We eventually reached a dusty road on the far side and with no better plan turned around and walked back.

Back at the abandoned whaling station we headed upstream a few minutes to find a waterfall and some pools in which we dunked our feet.

Back in the dinghy we spent a while gradually approaching the dolphins who were still playing around in the bay. We ended up quite close and just drifted for a while taking pictures. One of the dolphins was larking around with some kelp which it ‘wore’ around it’s dorsal fin. Sometimes it would dive down and lose it’s crown only to pick it up again on the next pass. In the pod was a baby dolphin which seemed just a few days old. All the rest of the pod would give a similar sound as they came up for air. Each time the baby came up it was a significantly tinier ‘phoot’ sound which sounded incredibly cute.

At 5pm Ben and I dinghied a mile or so out to the rock where our guidebook claims lobsters can be caught. There were a number of other floats there so that may confirm the abundance but at the same time provide competition. We lowered our trap with about 55 feet of line to the float. Unfortunately the float ended up under water slowly getting deeper. Ben took one for the team and dove into the cold, jellyfish infested water to retrieve it. We tied another line to the first and again set it. This time I realized we’d drifted away from where we first wanted to leave the trap so we hauled it aboard and set it a final time. Fingers crossed.

The evening finished with curry and a movie.

Today we’ll press on south aiming to get to Tutukaka by tomorrow where we hope to get some internet service.

Urupukapuka Island

I think we can apply the standard phrase: Went for a hike, stunning views, caught no lobsters.

The specifics.

We tried for a while to catch some fish from the boat. Very early on we caught the interest of a large squid who grabbed the hook and squirted water at us a few times when we hauled it to the surface. That was the last we saw of it. Or anything else for that matter.

We left the lines out and went ashore for a hike. The path that circumnavigates the island didn’t go quite to the nearby beaches so we had to forge our way through foot high spongey grass while climbing a steep hill which was exhausting. Once on the main trail we followed it around clockwise through terrain even more varied than the previous day. I’ll leave it to the pictures which I’ll eventually upload to tell the story.

After one wrong turn we ended up at the one touristy bit on the island where we ate lunch and collected some free beers as a result of an offer we had in a promotional magazine we picked up in Tonga.

After lunch we completed our circuit of the island including a 5 minute diversion to a hide to see rare birds in an artificial habitat.

Back on the boat we still had no fish for bait. After dinner with the situation remaining the same we baited the lobster trap with some old chicken skin. As you can tell from the beginning of this blog we had no luck.

Perhaps we’ll have better luck today. We’ve now moved to Whamgamumu harbour where there is an old whaling station. There was practically no wind so we motored all the way. It is chilly but the skies are blue. There is a rock about a mile from here where our guide book says we can catch lobsters. We have to have hope.

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Addendum

Totally forgot to mention that while we were on our walk, the Jacksters left and the Inspiration Ladys arrived. Gary and Jackie popped over on their way to visit the gun emplacement and we invited them to pop by on their way back for a beer. This was our chance to wish them a Happy Xmas as we won’t see them for a few months due to differing schedules.

Also. No lobsties this morning either. However, the fish had been devoured and the lid of the trap opened. We thought we had the lid secured so either the lobsties have more cunning than we anticipated or we were poached.

We’ve now moved to Waewaetorea Passage and have the fishing lines out to catch more bait for the lobster trap.

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Did we catch any lobsters?

No. Got that one out of the way pretty quick. Just some kelp. Not even any whelks this time. Ben and I replaced the manky beef fat with the deliciously stinky fish caught the night before. Hopes are up.

That was it for the morning. In the afternoon we took a walk around Moturua. The walk was fantastic with excellent views of the area which we’re nowhere close to being bored of yet. As we walked around the island the walk ascended four times and descended four times back to beaches. In between we were treated to a variety of landscapes from tight wooded areas to open fields at times. A lot of variety in a short period of time with plenty of exercise. Our final stop was an old WWII gun emplacement – an old pill box looking north. From there we could see the buoy from our lobster trap which brought thoughts of deliciousness (hope yet remains).

One of our outdoor speakers failed so I replaced that. That sums up the day.

Today we move on.