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BBQ & Boat Work

Yesterday evening’s BBQ was a lot of fun. As expected we met a lot of the friends we’ve made sailing across the Pacific. Some we’ve not seen in quite a while. We all had our stories to tell. Our recent experience with the rudder attracted much interest.

Interestingly, on the way to the BBQ we bumped into and started chatting to a chap with a hefty video camera. It turned out he was looking into the story about a boat called Wild Goose which had lost a man overboard on the way here from Rarotonga. Ben had spoken to them at midday on our second day out. Although there was not a lot of content to his story, Ben ended up being interviewed for national TV. As unfortunate as this story is I don’t think it will factor much in the shade of the problems at Pike River here in NZ.

Today we started on our boat projects – at least those we are ready to kick off here. Not before a visit to the bakery early in the morning where I picked up freshly baked blueberry muffins and apple turnovers for breakfast. Heaven.

The first fix was something not even on my list of things to do. When we connected the boat to the shore water we ended up with a lot of water inside the starboard transom. This is the reverse of a problem we had from the beginning where water ended up there when we made water. Turned out there was a cracked plastic fitting which needed to be removed. Of course, it was not in a simple place to access so it took some time to fix. That being done we now have unlimited water aboard.

While Helen cleaned the outside of the boat I did a few more bits and pieces travelling back and forth to the chandleries and the stores nearby to research items and pick up parts. I have collected most of the parts needed to create a switch at my nav station which will disable the fridge, freezer and the wind gen. All these items need to be disabled when I use the sideband radio which is a pain and sometimes dangerous in rough seas – the current wind gen disabling requires me to get on the back step and lean into the starboard transom – not nice in high seas.

I also bought the parts to permanently plumb in the waste from the washing machine. Until now we have to remember to put the pipe in the sink and sometimes, with much mess, we forget. Not a problem any more. Job done.

I’m now in contact with the people who make dinghy wheels. They’re based in Whangarei so we’ll probably sort that out when we go there in a few weeks. I’ve also got some info on new outboards. We want a more powerful one so that we can plane with more than just the two of us in. I’ve also been sizing up the challenge of connecting the cooling circuit on the generator to the hot water tanks heat exchange coils as this would give us hot water as a byproduct when motoring. The project has some benefits but it’s complicated to do. The jury is out on this one. Finally, I’ve done a little research on some of the things to do inland when we get the time. There’s a lot of choice and narrowing it down won’t be easy. At this moment I’m downloading the latest software for our chartplotter. It hung up a few times on the way down which was annoying. I know it’s a software issue as it was related to turning the heading line on of all things. Hopefully this will resolve things.

Ben has been researching jobs in the US. Yesterday we found a clunky piano in the yacht club here. It had a few problems which Ben addressed today and has been getting his fix in on the ivories.

This evening we have the final bash of the weeks festivities here (of which we came in at the end). It’s a prize giving / pork roast. Should be more fun.

Last Day of Passage, First Day (so far) in NZ

A lot had happened since yesterday morning.

The wind remained fairly light for our last 12 hours in requiring us to motor sail for most of it but we did cut off the engine when we could. We wanted to arrive in daylight but not so early that we could clear customs. That would force us to stay the night on the customs dock and get a good rest.

On the way we were greeted three times by various craft. The first, was a NZ Airforce 4 prop Orion which contacted us on behalf of customs to get our details. Just before noon we encountered a twin prop light aircraft owned by customs with whom we again exchanged details. As we entered NZ territorial waters we were met by a craft identifying itself on as a New Zealand Warship who again took our details on behalf of customs. These guys are serious about their borders. In amongst all this we were also greeted by two pods of dolphins who probably don’t understand what all the fuss is about. As we entered the Bay of Islands within which Opua is situated, we could literally smell the freshness of the place.

We arrived on the customs dock at 7:30pm, tied up and opened cold beers to celebrate not only reaching New Zealand (our toughest passage to date) but crossing the Pacific Ocean. It’s a strange feeling but looking back it all seems such a normal thing to do but we can remember when we imagined this phase of the trip with great respect and trepidation. We’ve done it though and here we are on the next step of our bigger journey.

Shortly after arriving we were greeted by the Jacksters in their dinghy and by Bill from Avante who was berthed nearby. We recognized other friends of ours boats in the marina so we’re looking forward to catching up with them all. We stayed up a while having wine with dinner and watching TV to end the day. The strangest thing was how still the boat was. We can’t remember anywhere where the boat was so unmoving – it felt like we were back on the hard in Grenada (though nowhere near so hot).

I woke at 5am as I do every day, watch or not, and got back on the internet. It is so fast here which we have not experienced for a very long time. The only downside is that we pay by use so we have to be a little careful with what we do. While waiting for the officials to arrive we were hailed by Gary on Inspiration Lady offering to take us into Paihia later that day to sort a few things out as well as A Cappella to greet us and let us know what’s happening. There’s a free cruisers BBQ on this evening at 6pm which were certain to attend where we’ll meet up with all the Pacific Crossers who are here with us.

By 9am our engagement with NZ officialdom had begun. First aboard was the biohazard officer who inspected the boat for food items not allowed in. We’d eaten most of what we knew wasn’t allowed, including the last sausage rolls in front of him, so he didn’t have much to take away for incineration. We had customs aboard for their paperwork as well as three guys and a sock wearing dog to search for contraband. We survived all this without issue and were officially welcomed to the country. We were in.

We immediately left the dock to move around to a berth which we’d reserved earlier in the day. We were helped in by the Snow Leopards who’d heard we were coming in. I was grateful for this as I was still a little nervous close maneuvering with the jury rigged rudder.

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The main marina most of our friends are is more geared for monohulls so we’ve been put on the other side of the wharf where there is room. Our intention was only to stay for a couple of days but when we learned it is only NZ$22 a day here we are likely to stay a while longer.

My first order of the day was to dismantle my lash up and remove the damaged parts. The lashed up pin had ground into the flange so I took that off as well. We all went ashore to make a number of stops. First was the marina office to book us into the marina. Next was Opua Engineering where I was able to show the damaged pieces and discuss possible options for replacement / repair. Between us we came up with a new design for the pin which will be eliminate the weaknesses in the current design and, should it ever break again, maintain a connection between the autopilot and the steering assemble making a future lashup simpler to implement and certainly less risk to thumbs and fingers. I have ordered three pins. I will replace the existing starboard pin with the new design and end up with a spare of the new design and two spares (one used) of the old. That should keep us going. The new parts should be available before the end of next week. Good job we’re planning to stay
on the dock because right now we’re going nowhere.

Next stop was the Catermarine chandlery to where our charger is due to be delivered. It turns out we do have a package held in customs down in Auckland awaiting our customs papers. I had them with me so they took copies and were happy to engage customs on our behalf to clear the package in. Great stuff.

Then it was off to meet Phil from “Cars for Cruisers”. He runs an excellent set up where he essentially sources and sells used cars with a guaranteed buy back at the end of our stay. It works out considerably cheaper than renting and ensures we have a simple return at the end of our stay. We gave him our budget and requirements and he’s now off researching options for us. Hopefully by sometime next week we’ll have a car for the next 5-6 months.

Not done yet.

We next visited the Opua Cruising Club to book our Thanksgiving dinner next Thursday. They weren’t open for this yet but we did bump into the Leu Cats, A Capellas and True Companions there (Dave from Leu Cat we’d bumped into already several times that morning). We were ready for lunch. We stopped at a truly excellent (taste and price) fish and chip shop nearby.

After lunch we had scant minutes back on the boat before we went back to the marina area to meet Jackie from Inspiration Lady who was going to take us into Paihia. Paihia is a quaint (and very pretty) holiday town and also where there is banking and supermarkets. On the way we stopped off at Richard Tapper’s upholstery place (well recommended to us by several folks) to discuss a new helm seat and cushions for our cockpit area. He will visit us sometime next week to discuss options and to measure up.

Next stop was Paihia itself which, as I said before, was quite quaint. I visited the ANZ bank to discuss setting up an account here to minimise overseas bank charges. It’s all doable but not until Monday. We next bought a couple of tour books – one hiking and one adventure. Another stop was the tourist office where we picked up armloads of maps and tour info for around NZ so we have something to pour over over the weekend.

Finally it was off to the supermarket for provisioning and obtaining a mobile phone SIM. The supermarket was brilliant. Full of stuff we’ve not seen in ages and definitely fresh (not stale) too. Our eyes boggled. Ben found some pork pies which he misses from England.

Whew. That’s about it so far. Not long now to the free BBQ this evening. We’re all looking forward to that – in particular meeting up with all our friends. More on that tomorrow.

We’ve Arrived

We’re now tied up to the customs dock in Opua.

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Bloody Hell!!!! We’ve crossed the Pacific Ocean.

Day 7 – Nearly There

Another calm day. The Code Zero stayed up all day and we alternated sailing and motor sailing as the wind built and faded. Excitement is building as we’re within a day of New Zealand. We all had good long showers and changed our clothes. Helen spent some time cleaning the boat. I started ferreting around the boat for some ideas about some things I want to do when we’re ashore. The last 6 beers went into the fridge.

A big thrill was seeing a large pod of lively dolphins – a species we haven’t seen before.

As I type our ETA for arrival at the customs dock is around 7pm this evening. The apparent wind is down to 3 knots so we’re motoring with little help from the sail. It will stay up for now to provide us some movement when I shut the engines down for radio transmissions. These sessions will no doubt slow us down but that’s alright. We’ll get free dockage on the customs dock for the night where we’ll have our last meal (before all our fresh food is confiscated and incinerated) and crack open the beers and wine we’ve denied ourselves for the passage.

It’s quite a feeling to sit here realizing we’ve almost done it – crossed the Pacific. I’ve been pondering this. Where does the Pacific end when one sets of from the Americas? It has to be somewhere. Although we’ll be going back out into the Pacific next year in a lot of ways arriving in New Zealand represents the completion of this 8,300+nm passage. With a lot of stopovers. So this may as well be it. Barring problems today, we’ve made it. We feel like congratulating ourselves.

72nm to go.

Day 6 – Colder

We plod on. The wind has lightened further and moved more to the north east. That has enabled/required us to hoist the Code Zero. As we’d furled it badly last time it was a bit of an effort to raise it. Once up it did it’s job. Placing some confidence in the weather forecasts we left it up overnight. With occasional pushes from the batteries we are managing to maintain a Thursday evening ETA into Opua. We won’t be able to check in on arrival but we can tie up to the customs dock and have a good nights sleep. I’ve just downloaded the latest forecast and this predicts light north easterlies all the way in. Helen will be pleased.
It is getting very cold now. Night shifts are not something to look forward to. We’ve found some audio books which we’ve been listening to recently which helps pass the time. We’ve seen no other vessels since we fell behind the fleet with our rudder problem. From the positions gathered yesterday we know we’re not at the back. We’ve overhauled two vessels and Sea Mist is still at the back, although catching up quickly. I’m off to watch the glorious sunrise.

207nm to Opua dock.