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Excess Latitude

Our brief stay at the Impangele B&B was a real pleasure. Our host Walter looked after us well cooking a great dinner in the evening accompanied by great wine from a fine selection. We spent the evening chatting and shared a second bottle finally polishing off some port on the house. In the morning he cooked up a delicious breakfast before a couple of the dogs took Helen and I for a walk around the lake/bird sanctuary outside.

For anyone visiting Johannesburg or, like us, simply passing through we thoroughly recommend the place.

Our trip to the airport was mildly eventful as my GPS had no knowledge of the blocked roads that had turned that residential area into a large compound with just a few ways in and out. Neither did my GPS know about some road alterations on the freeway which resulted in us being unable to get off when we wanted. We had plenty of time in hand and we made it to the airport in very good time.

Keeping our costs down we flew with Saudi Arabia Airways via (a 5 hour stop in) Jeddah which was another cultural experience for us. Helen very quickly felt under dressed amongst the majority of women on the plane who all seemed to have nice eyes. She rectified this by putting on her leggings planned for later when we arrived in the Uk.

The flights were both around 6 hours each give or take so it wasn’t too bad. No alcohol of course on the plane nor in Jeddah airport which wasn’t much to speak of and, quite surprisingly, cold from excessive use of air conditioning. We both managed a couple of hours sleep on the second flight.

Helen’s sister met us at the airport and took us to her home in Chesham. That was a welcome relief for us as we were quite tired and not adjusting well to the cold. We weren’t overly busy during the day but we did make and have an appointment with Barclays Bank here to open an account. We’re fed up of excessive fees on our overseas withdrawals and Barclays here in the Uk (as Bank of America in the US) are part of the Global ATM Alliance. By using a Barclays ATM card we’ll have lower fees in the countries we’ll be visiting next year. That would be nice. Interestingly Bank of America has a few more restrictions over the countries we’ll be visiting so the Uk banks is better for us. Quite coincidentally, in the news in the Uk that morning was notice that some banks, including Barclays, will be lowering their overseas transaction costs. No details of this had flowed down to the branches yet but it can only be good news for us.

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In the evening we had a take away curry from our favourite restaurant here in Chesham, our old home town. Very delicious. We’d been looking forward to this and weren’t disappointed. I also had to get involved in some calls to New Zealand as the parts of our sex-change for the boat are ready to be shipped and it looks like things were left until the very last minute to work out logistics. I hope we have no delays as a result of this.

This morning we’re up and about later than normal but it’s pitch black outside. It’s winter of course but we’re also in latitudes not experienced for a long time, particularly this time of year. It feels quite weird. Not sure I like this winter lark but I’m sure we’ll get used to it.

Arrived in Uk

Flights were on time and we had no problems bar getting little sleep. Full update later.

Now in Johannesburg

We were in no rush to leave this morning. After breakfast we read for a bit before finally checking out. As intended we drove through the Golden Gate Highlands National Park which reminded us very much of Arizona, in particular the area around Sedona. We spent about an hour in the Basotho Cultural Village which showcased how the Basotho people (who live in Lesotho and the Free State, South Africa) have lived over the last few hundred years and how their villages have evolved. It was all quite interesting except for tasting some of their food. At the beginning we were taken through a mock ceremony with the mock chief where their sourgum based beer was shared with us, the visitors – somewhat reminiscent of our encounters in Fiji.

From there we headed to our overnight accommodation at the Impangale B&B where we were greeted by the owner and six out of his seven South African Ridgebacks – the seventh being kept inside following an operation. The place is absolutely superb and looks to be a great stop before we fly out tomorrow.

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More time in the Draks

On Friday we did relax. At least for the morning that is. We both woke feeling very stiff and painful from our previous two days efforts. We were due to move rooms that morning (due to there being no room continuously available for us when I booked) so after breakfast we packed then left the room. We spent the morning in the hotel ‘quiet room’ where we could access the internet and generally relax. For the first time we ate lunch at the hotel having had packed lunches prepared for us the previous two days. Leaving aside my comments of the first night we’ve been pretty happy with the fare here and lunch was no exception.

After lunch we moved into our new room – a superior suite. We now had a better bathroom, a better shower, an additional room off the side, a bigger and colder fridge and a four poster bed. Not bad. After settling in and despite our legs feeling no better at all we decided to go for another hike, this time to visit the ‘Silent Woman’ carved into a nearby rock. Helen had hoped the hike would be fairly flat but it wasn’t. Even though it was about the same altitude as the hotel there were plenty of ups and downs that kept us groaning with the pain in our thighs. Another wrong turn left us spending some time looking for the ‘Silent Woman’ as we arrived from the wrong direction. We would have found the carving straight away had we come directly. The ‘Silent Woman’ was carved into a rock in amongst some other rocks and trees down by the confluence of two small streams. Had there been no markings it would taken a lucky find to run into it.

We were exhausted on our return and fell into the bath (big enough for the two of us) to wash and unwind.

This morning we hiked the hills on the other side of the hotel to which we’ve generally been heading off. We reached a place called ‘The Grotto’ which was a set of waterfalls and wind and water carved gulleys. From there we ascended to the lower ridge where we had some great views of the hotel and the landscape behind. We walked past the top of ‘Fan Falls’ which, we assumed, would look good had there been more than a trickle of water coming down. We finished off by winding our way back to the hotel along a path we found that was not on our map.

After lunch we both had a massage, simultaneously, in a delightful hut overlooking the forest. Worried about our painful legs we both dosed up with ibuprofen before we went. Even then we both felt a little sore at times. Regardless, it was a great way to unwind after our recent hikes.

Tonight is our last night here and tomorrow we head back to Johannesburg before flying to the Uk on Monday (arriving Tuesday). So we’re close to the end of this holiday (here in the Draks) within our holiday (trip to South Africa) within our holiday (our life at the moment). We hope to visit the Golden Gate Highlands National Park on the way (well, out of the way) back to Johannesburg. Not sure what to expect but it’s supposed to be a good drive.

The Cavern

The flight from PE to Johannesburg went without a hitch. Being just round the corner to the airport made the morning easy. The airport in Johannesburg is a marvel with the car rental agencies accessible from the terminal backing onto the car park. Within a short while from landing, we were in our car and on our way to the Drakensberg.

Including a lunch stop it took four hours to get there. The Cavern Resort is a delight and very relaxing set in fantastic scenery. We are pleased with our choice.

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After settling into our room we decided to stretch our legs with a short walk from our room. We visited some nearby falls followed by a natural pool where some kids were swimming.

In the evening we made ourselves a little more presentable and ate dinner. The service exceeded the food which although fine, the dishes didn’t seem as fresh as they could be and perhaps had been cooked earlier. Not to worry.

On wednesday we went on a hike in the nearby national park along the Tugela Gorge. This was a guided hike and we were joined by two of the other hotel guests as well as our guide, Stanley. The hike was 7km each way and not overly steep. There were some ups and downs which made the hike more strenuous than walking along a simple path. At the far end of the hike we took off our shoes and waded up along ‘The Tunnel’ which was a portion of the river which had cut so deeply into the rocks it almost closed overhead. We couldn’t go too far before the water became too deep. It was freezing our feet off and we had no inclination to swim so we turned back. We ate our lunch there before climbing up a metal ladder and then some iron spikes up a crack in the rock to a viewpoint overlooking the tunnel. On the way back our leg muscles began to cramp and we realized just how much we’ve got out of shape. We had to double time it too as the rain came in and soaked us, despite having rain gear which didn’t turn out so waterproof.

Today the weather has been fantastic. Helen and I decided to double down and visit not just one of the harder to get to locations behind the hotel (Echo Cave) but to work our way across the escarpment behind the hotel and climb up again to Cannibal Cave. It was exhausting but well worth the effort. The views here are wonderful. We got a little sidetracked at Echo Cave going way too far in the wrong direction. It was worth it though as we caught sight of the sunlight highlighting one of the small waterfalls pouring off the vast overhang that provided an enormous ceiling to the ‘cave’. Although the ‘cave’ had a roof, it was more a scoured out indentation into the cliff a few hundred meters high and nearly a hundred meters deep. Inside grew trees and we almost didn’t realize we’d walked behind a waterfall when we did.

Cannibal Cave was equally interesting. It was named after folks who had been hounded off their lands and had set up residence there with not a lot to eat bar their neighbours. Even the walk back down was superb but we were really tired and our legs aching by the time we made it back down. We’ll probably take it a little easier tomorrow but as of yet we have no plans.