Guadeloupe « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

Grande Anse

by steve, on January 29th, 2009 (Guadeloupe)

This morning we walked to Grande Anse. The route we took took us over the top of the 600 foot hill immediately to our north. On the way we were able to find a geocache the first we’ve looked for for 18 months. The cache was place close to the top of the hill where the trees broke and gave us a great view over the bay in which Deshaies sits. At the start of the walk we passed a cemetery. From the distance we thought it was a shanty town but closer to we realized it was a cluster of very ornate tombs. Unfortunately, I was having issues with my camera so didn’t get any pics of the cemetery. Maybe I’ll pop back later.

Back on the boat we’ve decided to rest up the rest of the day. It’s all hard work this walking. Still – we could be doing real hard work like we used to. In the cold.

Enjoy the pics.

Deshaies River & Evening Out

by steve, on January 28th, 2009 (Guadeloupe)

We decided the weather looked ok to go and hike the river. The guidebook said it would be an hour or two of rock hopping before we reached a road that would take us back to town. Usually we cover the distances in half the time the guidebooks say so when we’d been rock hopping and undergrowth barging, and slipping, and sliding, and barbed wire crossing we figured the guide book may just be a guide as opposed to a statement of fact. In fact, we got as far as a section of river we could not traverse due to corrugated iron being placed across it.

Coming back down the river was worrisome as the amount of daylight remaining was running out. The ‘guided’ 20 minute walk along the road back to town seemed all right but backtracking our 90 minutes scramble up the river, particularly after some additional rain which made things extra slippery, made things tricky. We made it out without too much worse for wear bar scratches, torn shorts and muddy clothes.

The hike was worth it though. It really felt like a scramble through the jungle. At times we were literally rock hopping. Other times we were making our way through undergrowth on the sides. Sometimes there were signs of people before us. At others we just had to barge our way through. Now I understand why some cruisers carry machetes.

We made it back to Dignity just before a deluge. Beers, showers and clean clothes were all in order. Later we went back into town to eat – we felt we deserved it. We had a three course set menu at L’Amer: Blood sausage (surprisingly mild), goat creole followed by desert.

Deshaies Botanical Gardens

by steve, on January 28th, 2009 (Guadeloupe, Video)

Yesterday afternoon, when Helen and I were walking around town we bumped into a group of four englishfolk: Graden, Sue, David and Margaret who were chartering the sailing boat “Clarabella.” I had bumped into Graden on one of my earlier attempts to clear in. We ended up inviting them around for cocktails later in the evening. It was nice to have them over and speak some English with some of our fellow countrymen.

This morning we walked up the hill to the Botanical Gardens. On the way (and on the way back) we tried again to clear in but customs remains resolutely closed at all times of day.

The gardens were spectacular. Countless varieties of tropical plants were on display. The layout was very similar to a curvy Ikea but there the comparison ends. It was pleasurable for a start. On entering the gardens we were greeted by a coy pond full of ravenous and massive coy. For a few cents you can feed them and they know it.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxtOHxW7HIQ[/youtube]

The rest of the gardens were a delight to walk through. Not sure if I can really cut this down so here follows a lengthy slide show.

And here is another video clip of a plant which reacts to being touched.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A7QF-Ybas3c[/youtube]

By end of this morning the weather had turned a little drizzly. Having scoured the town for fresh bread (there was none) we headed back to the boat for lunch. If the weather clears this afternoon, we’ll go for a walk along the Deshaies River. This evening, we may just eat out to treat ourselves.

Deshaies

by steve, on January 27th, 2009 (Guadeloupe)

(Pronounced Dey-hey)

What a beautiful little town this is. We arrived about 11am this morning after a pleasant sail from Ilet a Fajou. We went straight ashore for customs but found them closed. We had a quick explore around town. We’re very much looking forward to basing ourselves here for a few days. I’ve been back to try customs but they still weren’t open. We’ve managed to get a few daytime pics.

As we’ve found an internet connection we can play catch up with our albums.

Trip to Guadeloupe & Port Louis

Grande Riviere & Ilet a Fajou

Around Deshaies

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Mangroves and Brain Coral

by KC2RIY, on January 26th, 2009 (Guadeloupe)

The rain cleared this morning and we have since had fabulous weather. We too the dinghy over to Ilet a Fajou to explore the coast. Inland was impenetrable as the foliage was too dense. So we waded along the shore for a while. We found a place to stop for a while where the water sloshed around a clump of mangroves creating a mini-strait between. I couldn’t resist damming one side of this and watching how this changed the flow of water.

After lunch we dinghied out to the reef to snorkel. Helen wasn’t feeling too well so she stayed on the dinghy while I took to the water. The reef was not bad: plenty of brain corals, anenomes and reef fish. Found one live conch but left it in place. I am reminded we need to learn how to open and cook a conch.

A slow day is closing slowly. We’re now looking forward and moving on to Deshaies tomorrow. Forecast looks good for the trip.

Maybe tonight we’ll watch another movie. Last night we watched The Doors movie by Oliver Stone which was long but entertaining, particularly as we watched it out back with the stars around us.

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