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Carriacou « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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One that got away. One that didn’t (not for the squeamish)

We had a lovely peaceful night anchored off Ronde Island (or Isle de Ronde depending on which chart you’re examining). We use our time yesterday afternoon to clean the barnacles off of Dignity’s hulls. Earlier in the afternoon I had jumped into the water for a swim and immediately noticed that she was covered in barnacles from her stay in Grenada so that set our afternoon’s activities.

This time, the muck underneath the boat contained hundreds of tiny soft shelled critters, a little like marine fleas, which having been disturbed from their home settled on me. When I left the water on a couple of occasions I could feel them crawling all over me – it was horrible. The last hour or so was spent on the hookah. I didn’t come out until I have rubbed as many of the critters off me as possible. While doing this I was surrounded by fish eating the critters as I washed them off. Even so, I still had many aboard when I climbed out the water. Yuch.

We left around 9am this morning putting out the fishing lines as quickly as possible. Within minutes we had a fish on a line but just as we were dealing with it we sailed into the lee of Kick ’em Jenny and the wind went wild. By the time we had dealt with the boat we had lost the fish but not before the line had tangled with one of the others.

The sailing was soon fine and having managed to untangle the lines we were hopeful of catching something with all four of the lines out. Soon we had attracted the attention of a number of frigate birds. In the past interest would soon disappear when the birds realized our lures were fake. This time, one was too eager and dived down and was hooked. It was sad realizing the bird was doomed one way or the other. For a while it flew while being towed. Soon it landed in the water and was dragged. I decided to see if it was possible to haul it aboard and remove the hook before it drowned. By the time I had it close to the boat and out of the water it was not in a happy state. The hook was in it’s body, a wing looked broken from being dragged in the water and it was not happy at all.

At this point I realized I would have preferred it had the bird drowned. As it was I couldn’t put it back in the water to drown nor could I bring myself to bring it aboard. So I removed the lure and let the bird have some peace in the water before the inevitable came. We did capture a few pics of the birds before and after the hookup. Suggest you don’t look if you’re squeamish.

The remained of the sail to Carriacou was less eventful. We have discovered another tear in the headsail further up than the previous one. We’re going to go ashore this afternoon and see how our dinghy cover is doing and see if we can have a professional look at the sail.

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Off to Grenada Mainland

Last night we went out to eat at the Lambi Queen. A lot of cruisers had turned up there as a result of a marketing exercise (someone going around in a boat earlier in the day) so it was lively. We shared a table with two other cruising couples: Gabe & Kathleen from Catalyst and Marcia & Keith from Mimi. Food was good. Company was better.

We’re off to Grenada fairly soon. We realize we’ve posted no photos of Carriacou but we will do on our return. We need to swing by early June to pick up our new dinghy cover.

Sleepy Tyrell Bay

Once it at cooled down yesterday afternoon Helen and I went into town to clear in and walk around town. The officials at immigration turned out to be a lot of fun even though there was a lot of paperwork. We found the botanical gardens but they looked very much a work in progress so we passed on by.

We stayed the night anchored outside of Hillsborough thinking we could visit the nearby Sandy Island on the way out in the morning. When we did visit Sandy Island we found it quite choppy with winds in the 20s so we didn’t stop. We ended up in Tyrell Bay round the corner which is a lot quieter. Carriacou is very much like the caribbean as it used to be. Very laid back and not a lot going on. Some boats here have stopped for years and people taken roots.

We found a local canvas shop that will make us a dinghy cover so we’re having that done. While they were taking measurements this afternoon we had a few beers at the local places and chatted to some of the settled gringos.

Grenadines Tracks

Here are our tracks through the Grenadines.


View 2009 Grenadines in a larger map

Change of Plans – now in Carriacou

We set off this morning for Petite Martinique less than a mile from where we were anchored overnight.  We tried for half an hour to set our anchor but failed to find good holding.  Twice we pulled up old submerged moorings which we had to untangle. In the end we decided missing one island won’t hurt. So here we are in Carriaco.

The sail over was pleasant. Just before we were due to pull in our lines we caught a 3-4ft barracuda. Unfortunately it was hooked through the throat and gills so we weren’t able to set it free unharmed. To ease it’s misery I dispatched it with rum over the gills. Barracuda can be eaten but I’ve been advised that barracuda longer than your arm have been on the reefs too long and too many poisons built up in the tissues. This barracuda was longer than my arm so it went off to feed the marine food chain.

We haven’t yet decided what to do ashore due to our unplanned early arrival. There is a Botanical Gardens so we may go see that. Carriacou is famous for it’s rum distilleries. We’re sure to visit some of these.

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