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Mount Manaia

Too many pies recently so it was time for some exercise. Having waited by Mount Manaia for two days without going ashore due to rain we decided to go back there. We invited John from Sea Mist as he is usually up for it. He was glad of the invite as he’d also not been out much recently. In the end John offered to take all of us in his car as it was bigger which worked out well.

After one wrong turn we made it to the mountain. Although it was pretty high, the hike was much easier than others we have done in the last year as the path was well made all the way. The weather was cool but clear so we had some great views. Sam, as part of his art course, has to take pictures so he was the official photographer.

In the afternoon I visited the nearby yard to book our haul out. We are booked for April 5th which we can easily change. There I bumped into Dan from Division 2 who we met up in Tonga. It turns out we’ll be on the pilings soon right next to him. He’s agreed to keep an eye on Dignity while we’re away touring.

I spent some time in the afternoon wrestling with a few Project Euler problems. I’ve abandoned use of spreadsheets and have now started coding for the first time in years. My success count has now raced to 32 out of 315. Of course, I am doing the easier ones first so each new one is gradually getting tougher to do.

The Jacksters pulled into the town basin in the afternoon so it was nice to say hello to them. They were interested in joining the Xmas Eve meal with all the other cruisers here so we arranged this pretty quickly.

Apart from that Helen finished another edit of her Two Years On blog which is being used as the basis of our Xmas Letter this year. The big difference is that it now has embedded pics.

Waiwhapuku Bay, Moturoa Island

Shortly after writing the last blog Ben and I dinghied over to our float to raise the lobster trap. While the decomposing bag of meat at the bottom had attracted a few whelks, no lobsters had made there way into the trap. We knew the site wasn’t that good but it was worth a go. We brought the trap back to Dignity as we knew we were moving.

New Zealand has fairly thorough reporting of the local marine weather on the VHF. Here in the Bay of Islands there is a continuous loop on VHF 21 lasting about 5-10 minutes giving records of wind readings around the area plus a near / medium term forecast. Yesterday morning the forecast was predicting 25 knots from the south to south west gusting up to 35. That didn’t seem too nice so we headed for Putakokotoa Bay which didn’t have a great deal to offer bar good protection from the south. With a westerly wind we flew the job and gently sailed all the way there using the electric motors at the beginning and end. There we had our lunch.

I normally leave the VHF scanning a few channels, including the local coast guard channel. Here we heard someone asking the coast guard if 21 was the correct channel for the local area as it appeared the looped forecast was for somewhere else. It does appear to have been the wrong one because soon after the forecast changed to something more consistent to the previous days with winds forecast to be lighter and from the west/south west.

Rather than stay where we had nothing to do and (more importantly) nowhere decent to drop the lobster trap, we moved on again, this time to Waiwhapuku Bay on Moturoa Island. As well as a couple of day trip boats we found the Jacksters here and were soon waving at each other. It was another very pleasant anchorage and well protected with waters like a pond. There is a walk around the island which we intend to do. Helen wanted a rest however and I wanted to get on with changing the brushes on the watermaker feeder pump. This goes back to occasional issues we’ve been having all the way back to the Marquesas. Every now and then (more frequently recently) the feeder pump loses power. A quick tap on the back with a spanner causes the errant brushes to reseat and all is well. It gets us by but it’s no real solution.

So that was my afternoon’s project. And a pain in the arse it was. I think I’ve ranted about this before but I’ll rant again. The only piece of good news is that the motor has two easy inspection openings that permit access to and the replacement of the brushes and their springs. This good news is rendered worthless as one of the openings is inaccessible due to the way in which the motor is housed on it’s mount. So the motor has to be removed from it’s mount. To remove the motor from the mount, the mount has to be removed from the bulkhead. Once all this was done I needed to raise the whole assembly into the bathroom so I could do the delicate brush replacement work. I couldn’t raise the assembly as the raw water hose into the A/C coolant circuit looped past some of the wires going into the control box on the assembly. It seemed the easiest way to resolve this was to remove this hose which is never easy at the best of times. Swearing and cursing I tried to remove the pipe from the copper nipple. The nipple broke. That wasn’t right. Copper shouldn’t break like that. At least the pipe was off and I could raise the pump/control assembly and do the brush replacement work.

I was able to replace the brushes without too much difficulty. Then came the task of reattaching the pump to it’s assembly which involved replacing 4 bolts, 4 nylon washers, 4 stainless steel washer and locking nuts. Two of these were easy to get to. Two weren’t. I’d forgotten how hard this was to do when we last did this back in the Marquesas. Defeat was not an option and eventually I managed, with a lot of help from Ben, to get it all together.

Before putting the assembly back on the wall I turned my attention back to the broken nipple still stuck in the end of the A/C hose. With my pliers I found the stub of the nipple was quite brittle and broke inside the pipe. This allowed me to remove it quite easily but poses broader worries. We’ve known for some time there may be an issue in that the through hulls aren’t bonded. Why, I don’t know. I don’t really know enough about the pros and cons to have a strong opinion bar the fact it looks like we’re now looking at strong evidence as supporting the need for it. I’ve kept all the pieces so I can show them to a metallurgist (or someone closely resembling one) and get a better opinion.

Putting the assembly back on the wall and tidying up completed the job. The motor tested fine albeit with a slight whine which I put down to the brushes settling in.

On a complete aside, one thrill of the afternoon was having a tiny little penguin swim by. We knew there was some history of them in the area but hadn’t expected to see one. We took a few pictures which we’ll post when we’re back connected.

Dave and Jackie popped by after a walk around the island. We soon had them invited over for a bevvie and catch up later in the evening. They mentioned there was a good mussel bed around the corner and asked if we’d like a few as they were going. We agreed to just a few as we’ve had a varied history with them sometimes getting very sick. We went out with them but in our case to drop the lobster pot on the ocean side of the island.

Back on Dignity Ben and I fished for better bait for the lobster trap and succeeded in catching two fish which we left outside to rot. Turns out lobsters are garbage eaters and like nothing better than something that gone off.

After dinner Jacksters came over full of mussels. We’d eaten the few they dropped by after our own dinner. We’d enjoyed them but weren’t eager fans. We had a good evening together and caught up on a few things. We remarked on how incredible it all is that we first bumped into them in a bar in Grenada and here we are bumping into each other, yet again, this time in New Zealand.

Today we may just hand around another day. We’ll certainly check the lobster trap and put the fish in. We’ll also go for the walk around the island.

Avalau

In the morning Ben, Tim (from Kamaya) and I dinghied around Euakafa to go spear fishing. The guide books said the south side was supposed to be pretty good but it turned out to be a little less than spectacular. We anchored the dinghy fairly close to where Tim, Stuart and Paul had capsized in Stuart’s dinghy the previous day. There were a few items that hadn’t been recovered the previous day. Tim had a look for those too but had no luck.

Having exhausted the thrills of Euakafa (the hike was the only good thing) we moved the boat to Avalau around midday.

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Here there are vast expanses of turquoise waters making the area look quite pretty. Ben was soon out spear fishing and caught a couple of fish. I joined him but I think the word was out and no decent fish were presenting themselves.

Both Imagine and Jackster were in the anchorage so we invited them over for dinner – particularly because Stuart is still single handing and probably needed the company. Over the evening the weather picked up and the anchorage became quite swelly. Overnight things have not improved and we woke to a grim, gray morning. The poor conditions make this a less desirable stop so we may move on today.

Some news on the charger front. I was passed (I suspect without reading) an email which revealed that the charger was at UPS but awaiting on someone to pay. There was no indication that anyone was doing anything nor was there any indication that my requests to prevent it being sent to Nieafu (and hopefully onto Tongatapu instead) had been heeded. That email got a quick response. The delivery has been canned and now it’s going to New Zealand. Given the poor show so far that’s probably about the only thing that will work for us. The resiliency of the system is not letting us down so we can get about ok. If we’d been told up front that sending the replacement to Tonga was impractical and could we have waited til NZ I would probably have accepted it. Instead our expectations were set and then the comedy began. In Aitutaki I had to cycle miles to get an internet connection to research delivery options. In Niue I had to make several trips ashore to use the public phone (mostly to full voice mailboxes) for a dialog which would have been simple over email. I’ve had to make several (almost always completely ignored) calls a day from Tonga to chase. We’ve wasted time and money on all these fruitless phone calls. I’m sure the real reasons for the delays and frustrations are being concealed from us but the result, which is all that matters, is a big zilch. What a load of bollocks.

Mariner’s Cave / Beach BBQ

Around mid morning Ben and I took the dinghy over to the small island of Luakapa to snorkel as we’d read it was supposed to be pretty good there. The water was certainly clear and it was quite interesting. We’d brought the spear guns just in case there was something worth taking back to eat but there was none of that.

On the way out and on the way back we popped by a few of the boats we knew to invite them to come with us to Mariner’s Cave in the afternoon. It was about 3nm away which is quite far for dinghies. It was recommended to go by boat – perhaps sharing to make it easier. In the end we had quite a few agree to come up – 16 folks in all from Delos, Inspiration Lady, Vagabond, Callypso, Ludmilla, Anthem, Jackster, Imagine & Arctic.

Gary and Jackie from Inspiration Lady were a great help. Not only had they agreed to be the dinghy dock but they also came along just for the ride and social giving us someone to man the boat while everyone got in the water.

At 2pm we had everyone aboard and we motored off to the cave. We found it easily enough as there were two other boats there when we arrived although they left shortly after. Our drop off was a bit far from the cave so we had a bit of a swim to get there. To get into the cave one has to swim down a few feet then along about 12-14 surfacing in a sealed, dark cave. The entrance tunnel was quite large so by going deeper there was no risk of bumping into anything. Inside the cave it is quite amazing. Despite being dark it is well lit from the outside. The surf created changes in pressure that could be felt in the ears. When a partial vacuum was created by the surf going out a mist would form inside the cave momentarily.

There was a second entrance which I’d heard about before. It was about 40 feet down and a little longer – about the limit of what I can do underwater. Forgetting that I’d just done a fairly long swim I went for it. This turned out to be a scary moment as I was gulping for air even when I still had rock over my head. Reaching the surface took forever. I decided to remove my weight belt to help. Just before doing so I realized I shouldn’t do it over the deep water outside of the tunnel exit so I swam over the roof of the tunnel to let it go. In hindsight I could probably have reached the surface in that time. Nevertheless I am here to tell the story but I’ve learned my lesson. The longer underwater stuff can only be done when I’m totally relaxed and not after an exertion. I was soon back in the cave spending a lot longer inside this time with everyone else who were now all inside. Feeling more relaxed I again exited via the lower tunnel finding it a lot easier. Ben also made the exit the same way.

On the way back Ben entertained us by playing on Bamboozle’s piano which we still have. We’d dragged a couple of dinghies out the the cave as a few folks wanted to visit Swallow’s Cave on the way back. We let them go about half way back and headed in.

We agreed to have a beach bonfire/BBQ at 6pm. A few of us went ashore to collect wood while others prepared food. Soon we had quite a crowd ashore and two fires going. We stayed quite late with chatting and some music – mostly furnished by Fergus from Paleides on his hand organ. It was well after midnight before we were finally back aboard. Ben went back to Delos but it looks like he swam back at some point as he’s aboard and there were wet foot prints all over the cabin this morning.

Wrecked

Around midday, along with all from Delos and Jackster, we dinghied over to the end of the bay we’re in and dove on the wreck there. The surface waters were calm and murky but from about 20 feet down visibility cleared. The wreck is of an old transport ship a few hundred feet long. The highest parts of the structure are at about 60ft deep with the stern deck around 70ft. The base of the holds which can be entered sit around 110ft deep. There were plenty of fish around the wreck as well as many large majestic jelly fish. The iron deck has plenty of holes allowing us to peer into the depths of the ship. Because of the depth it was a short dive of around 30 minutes which was perfect for Helen.

Freezing Rain next to us invited us over for G&Ts at 6pm. We went ashore an hour or so earlier to cash in our free pizza only to discover they don’t light their oven until 6pm. We ended up at the Sunset Bar having their wood fire cooked burgers which were pretty damn good.

Leaving Ben aboard to get in some more piano before we have to hand it back we headed over to Freezing Rain where we also met the Trims and the Worral Winds.

Today we’re out of here. As much as we like it in Neiafu we do want to see some more of the islands around here. We’re off to Port Morell for a couple of nights before pushing off to the east side of the group for the weekend. We still don’t have our tracking reference but have people lined up when CatCo work out how to send an email. Ironically Leu Cat just sent us an email this morning saying they’ll be in Neiafu today and are hoping to see us. This is not the first time we’ve passed each other by. No doubt we’ll see them around here soon.

We’re feeling a little wrecked ourselves after the last week or so. We need some quiet time to recuperate. Maybe not tonight though because there’s already talk of a beach bonfire.