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South/West Caribbean « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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Sarqui

We managed to spend our remaining bolivars in the supermarket in Grand Roque. Without really bothering with prices we just picked up things that we fancied. At the till we figured out what we had left then added three bottles of wine and a cloth and were down to less than a bolivar.

Back on the boat we were keen to leave as the anchorage was quite choppy. We left in 20 knots of wind with one reef in the main. Even though it was a short trip we made a lot of energy as we went, probably making up for the few minutes we were under motor. At times we were making 1.5kW on the regen.

I put out one handline using a surface lure. About 2/3 of the way, having just decided our meal plan for the day, we picked up a barracuda. I hauled it in and sprayed it’s gills with rum. This was the first time we used a vaporizer that we’d bought in a garden section of a store in Grenada. It worked very well – perhaps also because Helen had stuck some of our Rivers Rum in their – 71% alcohol by volume. The cuda went out like a light. I cut the arteries behind it’s fins but there was no bleeding.

As there was not much time left we dumped the fish into a bowl and made for our anchorage. We anchored in about 25 knots of wind all on the electric. Our anchor dragged back towards some other boats before biting hard with enough distance to keep us all safe. Then it was preparing the fish for the grill: descaling, gutting and head/tail removal. The meat left weighed 2lb which was more than enough for a big meal. Onto the grill it went and 20 minutes later we had a delicious lunch.

The afternoon went to pattern. We rested then snorkeled. The nearby reef wasn’t too spectacular and was also rather shallow. We did see some midnight parrot fish for the first time which thrilled us both.

The evening went by with reading, a light supper and watching a show on the computer.

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Grand Roque

Around 10am yesterday we took to the dinghy to go for a snorkel. We headed for the lagoon between the two easterly Francisqui islands. On the eastern edge of the lagoon the water became extremely shallow. We could see beyond the shallows a deeper pool with a ridge of reef protecting the pool from the chop further out. This looked promising. We found a sandy patch close to some mangroves and anchored the dinghy. We swam to the pool in about a foot or less of water.

Once at the pool we were in for a treat. The water dropped off to about 10 feet with an edge of coral though sadly mostly dead. However this created a haven for a multitude of largely tame fish. As we swam round the edge of the pool we were followed by several large reef fish. My guess is they’ve become used to being fed by swimmers and were hanging around in case we had something for them.

Having swum the perimeter of the pool we swam back to the dinghy and returned to Dignity. We then headed off about 2.5nm to Grand Roque under motor, this time with the genset running to juice up the batteries as it’s been a little cloudy the last couple of days.

Again we arrived around noon so we had lunch. I was keen to find an internet connection so shortly after lunch we headed to the pier by the coast guard to check in. They were closed til 2pm (Helen gave me a few told you sos). We walked towards the main population area along a sandy track. We didn’t go all the way into the center of things and what we saw reminded us of a spaghetti western town albeit with a little more colour. Everything was closed until 2pm and given that it was quite hot with the sun high we headed back to the pier where we’d tied the dinghy. Getting in and out of the dinghy here was not so pleasant as the pier was very run down and a favourite perch of sea birds, including the massive pelicans they have round here. You can guess what I mean by it being unpleasant.

After reading for a while I headed back on my own to clear in. First stop was the coast guard again. Here I ran into my first complication. We had been of the impression that we could stay in Los Roques for up to two weeks with a permit even without clearance papers for Venezuela (which you get on the mainland or in Margarita). The coast guard said we had to move on immediately. I told him that I’d asked the embassy in Grenada if we could do this and they said yes and showed him our visa. I showed him our plans for the next fives days and asked for clearance just for those five days. Given that the last three days will be on the far west of the park he made an ‘excepcion’ for us and granted us two days leave in the park. I believe he meant it would be ok for us to stay in the far west. We know from other cruisers that noone checks your presence out there so we should be ok.

I was then given a form which I had to take to the park office, the national guard and finally the airport office. I had to find these all myself having been given instructions in Spanish which is still all Greek to me.

This trek took me through the nicer part of the ‘town’. It is a tourist area but there were some very nice looking hacienda style houses and restaurants. There was also a ‘town square’ area with some bars and pizza restaurants and a bank. The streets everywhere were all sand. All very pretty.

My final stop at the airport was where we had to pay for our entrance. As we went through the formalities I learned our fee would be about 600 bolivars. When they learned we were in transit everything changed including the fee. They dropped it. We didn’t have to pay a thing.

Now we have an interesting problem. We have less than 24 hours in Grand Roque. It’s the last place we can spend bolivars and we had been advised to bring about $200 worth of them.

I immediately bought a hat at the tourist stand figuring it’s going to be hard to blow the lot. $10 gone. On the way back to the dinghy I bought a dozen eggs – we have had none since we forgot to buy some in Grenada. Another $2 gone. Back on Dignity I explained the situation to Helen and suggested we head ashore to look around, especially seeing as she hadn’t seen the nicer side of things.

We very soon bumped into Brice and Oud from Olafa who insisted they bought us a drink for all the help we’d given them. We agreed to this and ended up paying for a round ourselves as well of very nice rum punches. We agreed to meet up later for dinner as they’d left the remainder of their cash on the boat to prevent themselves from buying too much.

Helen and I wondered around town some more including going back to the supermarket where I bought the eggs to check prices – generally a bit expensive. With half an hour to spare we had drinks at a beach bar then headed off to our rendezvous point. It turned out most of the restaurants catered only for their own guests as they were more full board hotels (don’t know why they said restaurant). Maybe it was because we were dressed as cruisers and they didn’t want us in – who knows. There was one place that would take us but they needed an hours notice so we ended up at one of the pizza places in the square – the same one we had the rum punches earlier.

Here we dined and shared a couple of bottles of wine. The food and drink here is not cheap so we managed to blow a few of our bolivars that way.

This morning we still have a fair few bolivars to spend. We’ll go ashore and see what we can get in the morning. Our last bolivars will go on booze no doubt once we’ve run out of other ideas.

Our plans as communicated to the coast guard are to head to the anchorage on Sarqui today, Carenero tomorrow and then on to Cayo de Agua for about three days which we’ve consistently heard is delightful. We’ll then head off to Bonaire probably stopping off at one of the Ave’s – groups of islands between Los Roques and Bonaire.

We never did find the place that sells wireless time so no photos uploaded. That will all have to wait until we’re in Bonaire.

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Cruising Heaven

Los Roques continues to be a cruising heaven. While not entirely relaxing, sailing between the reefs and corals continues to delight. Maybe this is what we missed by not going to the Bahamas as we have heard it is similar. After waiting until around 10am for the sun to be high enough, we set sail yesterday aiming for Caya Francisqui. As the crow flies the distance was 5nm but the course we chose was nearer 8.5nm. We reefed the main to keep our boat speed low and took off. Planning ones tacks and jibes requires care as the obstacle course of shallow patches and rocks demands turns at the right time.

We arrived in Caya Francisqui in time for lunch. When arriving somewhere I logged our position via SSB. (NOTE: for some folks this means receiving an email letting us know we’ve moved. If you want to be on this list, feel free to contact me).

We had intended to snorkel the area as it is supposed to be very good. In the end we didn’t feel like it. I finished my book and decided to catch up on some preventative checks. This time they included examining all the battery banks. Everything looked perfect and it looks like no water has gassed although I’m sure some must have. I know these are new batteries but the difference in quality is vast. It’s very reassuring.

Helen and I did eventually swim ashore and have a walk around after most of the tourists have left. The beach near us seems to be a day stop for folks vacationing in Grand Roque. Water taxis are continually ferrying people to and fro. Once they’ve gone it’s especially nice.

This morning we probably will do the snorkel we missed. This will been dinghying round to the other side of the island and finding a good spot. Later today we’ll head over to Grand Roque and check in. If we have any Bolivars left over we’ll spend them. I can already see pay for internet connections so that may be one purchase so we can pay off credit cards, catch up on regular email and upload photos.

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Paradise found

After saying goodbye to Oud and Brice we put up our sails and sailed 5nm north to a new spot off the reef. Sailing through the reefs is magical. At one point I was standing at the bow with the autopilot remote in my hand keeping the boat away from the brown bits and, for good measure, the green bits. The green is where the sand is rising but is usually safe to traverse but there are risks of rocks. Our garmin maps seem very accurate in terms of where all the rises are.

Olafa soon arrived at the same spot. We knew they were heading here too but were glad of the company. We hailed them and invited them over for drinks after dinner to which they agreed.

After lunch, changing the water maker filters and a rest Helen and I went snorkeling. It wasn’t as excellent as our guide book suggested but still pretty good. We saw a turtle, a couple of large rays, a large barracuda and a couple of tuna along with many other smaller fish. The seafloor changes depth quite abruptly from a couple of feet to fifty within a short distance. Some of the interesting things were found on the margins.

Back on the boat we grilled chicken on the barbecue and cleaned up. With guests coming Helen forced me to tidy my desk – something that had been bugging her more than me for a while.

Oud and Brice stayed for a couple of hours and we had a good time. They were getting quite tired after their overnighter and ordeals of the day so we bid them farewell having exchanged/loaned each other a useful item each. Brice lent me some notes about sailing in Columbia and I lent him my contact cleaner to hopefully repair his laptop keyboard.

We finished the evening with a bit of stargazing. The objective was to spot the Andromeda nebula – the nearest major galaxy to our own. With the aid of Stellarium, fantastic free software, we were able to find it as it was just visible to the naked eye. With the astronomical binoculars the sight was awe inspiring. If I remember correctly it’s something like 2 million light years away and the furthest object that can be seen with the naked eye. Helen sloped off to bed and I spent a little longer gazing with the binoculars. I found a couple of star clusters and had a look at one of my favourites – Jupiter. I love seeing the four moons arranged in a line, different every time you look. You can use Stellarium to see how the positions of the moons vary even each hour.

Today we’re off to a group of islands called Francisquis. It’s heading into the touristy part of this park so we expect to lose the isolation. Olafa are probably following intending to stay there a few days.

Footnote. Horror of horrors. I discovered last night that the track memory on our chart plotter is full and it’s overwritten the earlier data. That means we’ve lost the tracks from when we returned to Dignity up until just as we entered Margarita. Bugger.

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International Rescue

Shortly before writing this morning’s blog I noticed a sailing vessel entering the Boca. Even at that time I thought it was a bit early in the day but I figured they knew where they were going. After sending the blog and in the middle of responding to emails I took a look around again and realized the boat hadn’t got too far and the sails were flogging. Normally I like to leave the VHF on all the time but the local Venezuelan fisherman have a habit of chatting on the emergency channel so we turn it off overnight. Just in case we would be hailed I turned on the VHF to channel 16 and almost immediately received a mayday call from the vessel that had just entered the boca. They had run aground. The Frenchwoman, Ude, felt they’d made a terrible mistake and requested our help to tow them off. Her partner, Brice, was also on his way over in the dinghy to request help directly.

Unless things got desperate it would be foolhardy to bring another boat close to the reef so I offered to take our spare anchor/rode and help winch them off the reef. Gathering the anchor, our portable depth sounder, my facemask and snorkel and a hand held VHF I took off in the dinghy to assist in their getting off the reef. I left Helen to report the situation to the soon to be starting coconut telegraph just in case anyone else was nearby and could lend a hand if it was required.

Once I reached their boat, Alofa, I could see things could certainly be worse. They were upright and away from any swell which could push them into shallower water. On the other hand the wind had pushed them sideways a bit and there was no way back out. Using the anchor seemed the best bet. We set it at an angle to the boat and brought the line aboard and onto a winch. We winched the anchor in but unfortunately it didn’t hold. We tried again with same result. We realised we needed to get it lodged on a rock, despite the coral on it, and Brice then thought setting it more to the side to shift the boat sideways to create a clearer run backwards. Around this time I had managed to call Helen to check our chart plotter and see what the tides were doing. Fortunately the tide (all one foot of it) was coming in so we didn’t have to panic and rush.

This time the anchor set and we were able to move Alofa around a little. I made my second splash into the water to check around the boat. I was concerned that just behind the bow was rubbing on a rock. I was in favor of using their anchor to pull the boat off the rock and wait for the tide to rise a few inches. Brice was more concerned about the possibility of continued damage while remaining on the reef. His boat, his call. Rather than lose my anchor I asked them for a fender to tie to the end of the rode so we could retrieve it when they let go. I offered to stay in the water and give the signal to move when the rudder was off the reef and to check for a clear passage out. On the signal Brice gunned backwards. I had to swim out of the way and grab hold of our dinghy which was tie to their boat. He committed to the action which was a gamble as he missed a large rock by just a few feet which could have snapped the rudder if he hit it.

The good news is they got off the reef all ok. We agreed they would come over to where we were anchored and anchor themselves. Once there they checked there underside. The bottom of the keel and rudder is damaged but not badly. They’ll survive. We invited them over for coffee so they could unwind from their experience which they accepted.

What makes this story ever more interesting is that Los Roques is the location Brice had been dreaming of for a long time. This was *the* destination. They had arrived earlier than expected and in their eagerness sailed through the boca far earlier than they should. They were confused (perhaps complicated by lack of sleep) as to why they couldn’t see the middle reef. They found it all right. On our boat, with the sun higher, they could see the difference the light made – all those shades of blue. And brown. Brown is where you don’t go.

Right now we’ve moved further up the reef and Alofa are alongside us again. We’ll probably see them a few more times over the next few days.

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