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Baie d’Hakahetou, Ua-Pou

En route to Ua-Pou I tried hailing Whiskers a couple of times but received no response either time. Later on, to our delight, we heard them hailing us quite legibly. We said our hellos and checked where we each were and where we were heading. Turned out they had left Nuku-Hiva and were on their way to Ua-Pou too. They’d heard of some difficulties anchoring in the main town of Hakahau and were contemplating going round the corner to Hakahetou. They chatted to someone else they knew in the area and confirmed the difficulties so we were all set to rendezvous at Hakahetou. We’d also learned that Bristol Rose was there who were good friends of Whiskers too.

We had a couple of strikes on the fishing lines on the way over. One was a large mahi mahi which leaped out of the water a couple of times before managing to shake off the hook. The other bite merely triggered the falling nut alarm but we saw no further action.

As we closed the miles to Ua-Pou we first saw Whiskers off in the distance through the binoculars, then with our naked eyes and finally they arrived just behind us – spitting distance away.

Ua-Pou is spectacular. It is a recent volcanic island with steep volcanic plugs standing out in the middle of the island. These plugs form as magma solidifies inside a volcano and then the outside of the volcano erodes away before the plug. It is therefore an intermediate phase which won’t last long before (maybe less than a million years) before the plugs and the landscape erodes down. For now get to enjoy a fantastic view right from our anchorage.

We were soon dinghying over to say hello to Whiskers and we agreed to all go ashore together. Ashore we bumped into Trish, Rob and their kids from Bristol Rose as they were returning from a little shopping. We soon agreed to meet up for food and drinks aboard Dignity that evening.

We walked around town with Dianne and Gerald and checked out both stores before returning to the boat for a couple of hours prior to the evenings festivities. In town we met a local who gave us a couple of pampelmousses (not sure on spelling but they’re like a large grapefruit).

In the evening, Bristol Rose’s brought some excellently BBQ’d Wahoo which they’d just caught and the Whisker’s brought some home made pizza. With our nibbles we had a great feast to go with the beer/wine and excellent company.

Today we’re off with Whiskers on a hike to a nearby waterfall. Bristol Rose are off today to Nuku-Hiva so we may see them again soon. We’ve had no news on our water make pump for a couple of days so we’re in limbo at the moment wondering if it’s made it to Tahiti and hence onto Nuku-Hiva. While we’ve been collecting water from ashore, we have not been putting into our water tanks as the little water there is pure from the water maker and hence has no contamination of any sort. We’ve long since turned off the fresh water pump aboard the boat to keep the last half tank of water for any system flushing we’ll need to do. We’re therefore living out of the bottles and jerry cans which is a bit of a pain. We’re all looking forward to running taps and a good shower.

Baie Haavei, Ua-Huka

After washing ourselves down and filling our water containers we headed round the corner to Baie Haavei. We were treated to the sights of more red rocks this time enriched as the sun lowered in the sky as the day wore on. John and I tried snorkeling along the coast but found the water not that clear as the swell was coming round the corner into the bay. We walked the beach before heading back to the boat.

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As I type we’re already 2 hours on our way to Ua-Pou. Whereas yesterday evening when we were teased with the sight of the volcanic spires off in the distance, today the island is shrouded in clouds. We can’t even see Nuku-Hiva 20 odd miles off to our north.

Last night we heard our friends on Whiskers on the VHF radio way off in the distance. We tried to make contact and we managed a brief hello before the static overwhelmed us. As we close the distance on Nuku-Hiva and Ua-Pou we’ll try and contact them again to find out where they are. We’ve not seen them since the San Blas on the other side of Panama. It will be nice to catch up.

Baie de Vaipaee, Ua-Huka

The sail over from Hiva-Oa to Ua-Huka was a breeze with the wind alternating between being off our beam and a reach. We arrived a good hour before sunset. The bay we arrived in reminds us of Arizona. Arid and dry with red rocks like Sedona turning into patches of green. The valley along which the stream runs is lush with vegetation.

We didn’t go ashore last night but we did this morning. We walked up the valley past another local church which had some very interesting carvings.

Next stop was a little museum which showed off a lot of Polynesian artifacts. For such a small place the museum had so much to see.

The village had three shops which we went into to look for things to buy on the way back. We then headed off out of the valley to the arboreum in the next valley along. Although it was early in the morning it was already getting hot and sweaty. Fortunately we were picked up by a local who took us the rest of the way. The arboreum was interesting but not up to some of the horticultural gardens we’ve seen. Most of it was a cultivated orchard.

We again caught a ride on the way back to Vaipaee where we stopped off at the shops to pick up some food.

There is fresh water at the dock here from which we’ll fill our bottles and have a wash. Our water maker part is still in New Zealand although it’s still due to arrive in Tahiti tomorrow. Fingers crossed it’s on a flight in the next 24 hours.

We’re going to move the boat around the corner to the next bay to wait out the day in readiness for an early start to Ua-Pou tomorrow.

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Hapatoni & Bahia Hanamenu

Around 8am we went ashore to explore Hapatoni. This little village is less touched by modern life than the others we’ve seen. There was a communal area with poles carved in a local fashion as were one or two other buildings. They had a church similar in style to the one in Vaitahu only somewhat smaller. Villagers could be seen keeping the area clean from fallen leaves, etc. making the place very tidy and clean. There was one small store where we found some corn starch which we’ve been looking for.

Back on the boat we all had a snorkel off the back of the boat. The jelly fish were not as abundant as the previous afternoon so we were able to get about a bit.

We saw a pod dolphins off in the distance – perhaps the same ones we’d seen the previous day. I’d forgotten to mention this in my previous blog but as we were arriving in the bay we came close to a pod of small dolphins which were larking about – some leaping out of the water doing flips and/or rolls in the air. They certainly know how to enjoy themselves. Or show off perhaps.

Before lunch we were sailing north back toward Hiva Oa. The winds were tricky for a while but soon we had the winds on our beam and we were flying along. Approaching the west end of Hiva Oa we lost the winds in the shadow of the mountains so we motored along for a short while.

When the winds return we were pounded. My makeshift outhaul snapped and one of our sail cars broke before I was able to reef the main. Soon we were up in 30 knots of apparent wind bouncing through the waves. We sailed right into Bahia Hanamenu which was receiving the wind from the north east and could hardly be described as ‘sheltered’ as we were led to expect.

The north side of Hiva Oa, at least this part, is a lot more arid. I looks more like parts of the grand canyon interspersed with palm tree oases.

The surf is a bit high for my crew to want to go ashore here. Helen is keen on getting away from Hiva Oa altogether so it looks like an early start to get to Ua Pou tomorrow where we can spend a bit of time before heading off to Nuku Hiva and hopefully rendezvousing with our water maker part.

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Baies Vaitahu & Hanatefau

By 8am we had the deck cleared and we were off to Baie Vaitahu just 3nm to the south. The little village/town there was in a valley surrounded by a towering ridge – quite picturesque. We were soon ashore having tied the dinghy to the dock and thrown out an anchor to stop the dinghy crashing into the dock/rocks.

The town was quite tranquil and I felt a restful feeling as we walked around. The main church had the most stunning architecture. It looked recently built made of a mixture of cemented round stones and wood carved using Marquesan designs. You’ll have to wait for the eventual photos to see. Helen and I both agreed we’d love to have a house built in a similar design albeit somewhat smaller.

There were two small stores in town. In the first one we picked up a stick of bread to eat as we walked around. We decided to walk up to another white cross placed at a point looking down on the bay/town. They seem to have a habit of choosing excellent scenic spots to place these crosses so they become an obvious target for a hike. The walk wasn’t as arduous as the one in Fatu Hiva but we were well rewarded with the view once we reached our goal.

We returned to the town and checked out the second store. It had less in it than the first so we returned to the first for supplies. We bought a couple of boxes of chicken pieces for a really low price as well as burgers and some more bread – we were set for an evening BBQ. Along with a number of other items we headed back to the boat to put things away. On the way we bumped into the Catafjords who’d made their way round in their dinghy.

After a rest, John and I returned to the dock to fill our empty bottles with fresh water from the tap at the dock. John washed some of his clothes while I washed myself down. Nice to do as we’re rationed on the boat as a result of the broken water maker.

We decided to try the next bay down to stay for the night as it was close to a small village called Hapatoni which we’d heard was interesting. We sailed the 2nm using just the headsail. It was quite a challenge as the winds came from all directions and changed strength due to the steep cliffs/mountains.

We picked a spot at the north end of the bay but soon found the boat swinging in the changing winds. I went in the water to check the anchor. Swimming was a trial as the water was full of the stinging type of jelly fish. I found that if I kept my arms in and kept moving the jellies tended to be pushed out of my way although I did my best to avoid them. I did get stung a few times including my top lip which was annoying. I dove 40ft down to the anchor and checked it and the sand around. It seemed fairly well set. All I could see looking up while returning to the surface was a gauntlet of jellies. I had to pick my way through carefully.

Back on the boat we waited a while to see which way the boat would swing. We decided to reanchor slightly further out so we wouldn’t swing too close to the shore as the wind often blew in towards the shore. Once moved we felt a lot more comfortable.

We stayed put for the afternoon and evening. John cooked up the chicken and burgers and we had a good meal of it. We finished the evening watching a couple more episodes of the Fringe.

This morning we’ll head over to Hapatoni to have a look around the village. Depending on how things go there we may then move on to Baie Hanamenu on the north side of Hiva Oa.

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