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Leu Cat « Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

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Merry Xmas

Happy Holidays to one and all.

Xmas Eve was a rush of last minute shopping. Our tiny tree suddenly ended up with a few presents underneath and around – more than we’ve seen in a few years due to our anticipated visitors.

The evening was spent in fine company. Squeezing the Jacksters (making six adults in all) into our tiny car we headed off to a nearby hotel to have an Xmas Eve meal with the local community, ie our Pacific cruising friends all here in Whangarei. At the table were Sea Mist (thanks for organising this John), Boree, Emily Grace, True Companions, Leu Cat, Jacksters and us. A riotous assembly. Food and company were both good.

As the Jacksters were nearby they joined us for a night cap back on Dignity. Helen impressed us all by (with just two glasses of wine in her) fell in the water getting aboard. It wasn’t really cold but the water was less than clear so she was out and into the shower in a hurry.

So now it’s Xmas and quite late in the morning at that (8 – if I can call that late). Being in NZ we get to celebrate Xmas a little earlier than the rest of the year. So here’s wishing everyone a very pleasant day wherever you are, whatever you’re doing.

Whangarei

The weather continued to be miserable. We also got a call from Whangarei marina letting us know a slot on the dock was coming available Friday afternoon. We didn’t get off the boat on Thursday and waking up this morning (Friday) we saw the mountain we wanted to climb shrouded in cloud. Our minds were made up. One hour after low tide we headed up river and here we are in Whangarei.

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We overtook Scream on the way up the river who turned out to be anchored one bay away. We saw John on Sea Mist at Riverside Marina close to town. We all waved. He called to see if we were interested in a dinner at a nearby hotel on Xmas eve. We were so that was sorted even before we were tied to the dock.

Docking was tight but the wind was blowing us slightly onto the dock which allowed me to be totally cool and let the boat drive right into it’s place nudging the motors to keep us in place. This was in front of a ton of people all around the dock and restaurant which overlooks us. The audience can make or break you – this time I wasn’t beaten.

On the dock we soon ran into Laura from Jenny, Kim from Emily Grace and Mary Margaret from Leu Cat. Nothing changes. Here we are 15 miles up river and we’re still bumping into old friends. Should be a good time here. We also recognised a lot of other boats that crossed the Pacific this year. Hopefully we’ll meet all these in good time.

We’re now hooked up to internet and water (in that order) and sorted out our stay at the office. Tonight we’re off for a curry, if the rain stops.

Checked Out – Now for the Weather

Quite a lot accomplished yesterday. At 7am we were up on the deck working on the head sail. Once the sail was down on the deck I could more closely examine the tear. It was about 2 feet long and away from the sun strip. By it’s position I think it may have caught on the spreader during one of our maneuvers. That will mean a trip up there soon to sharp for any sharp edges. I decided to sew the tear then tape it over. That should be enough to get us down to New Zealand. It took about an hour of work to repair the sail and then get it hoisted and furled again. Fortunately the early morning air stayed light enough for us to complete this work.

At 9am it was all aboard the water taxi to do our checking out and final (?) provisioning. First stop was immigration. This went smoothly. Immigration is opposite an excellent bakery (I may have mentioned this before) so we all sampled sausage rolls and doughnuts.

We then walked to the fruit and veg market and picked up some fresh food. We’re currently provisioning for two weeks with the last few days being tinned stuff. If we leave now we’ll have fresh food all the way. If we leave in a few days the tins will come out. If we leave later we’ll being reprovisioning.

We then blew the next few minutes walking through the center of town stopping at a cafe for some very tasty samosas and coffee. With the day heating up (another rare sunny day here) it was nice to sit somewhere air conditioned while we passed a few minutes. Overall we were aiming for the 1pm water taxi back so we didn’t want to rush.

Next we took a taxi to the port authority office where we cleared out there. Again we suffered (as in the Galapagos) from overstated tonnage on our ships documentation as this was the basis of our fee for clearance. We must fix this on our next papers renewal. Not too far away was the customs shed. There was no-one there so we had to find a customs officer in the wharf to clear us out. The guy we found was not overly pleased I had not checked into Nuku’alofa but did the paperwork anyway after making his protest for our failed adherence to full formalities. Our final bit of beaurocracy was a visit to another customs office back in the port authority building where we obtained our paperwork for duty free fuel. Having been delayed by having to find a customs officer earlier we just made it before they closed for lunch. Phew.

Another taxi ride, this time to a supermarket to pick up the rest of our provisions. This being done our final taxi ride of the day was back to the dock with a detour by the palace (Tonga is a monarchy) to have a teeny bit of sight seeing.

The 1pm water taxi ended up leaving 20 minutes late so by the time we were back on Dignity it was time to set off to fuel up at our prebooked 2pm slot. Soon we were back in the dock area. Another cat, “Two if by Sea”, was on the dock shifting forward to make room so we waited for them to complete their maneuvering before heading in. With the wind blowing off the dock and the rocky wall of the inner dock off our starboard beam we needed to be reasonably quick. Once we were tied up to the dock we discover the fuel line would reach neither of our stern fuel openings so we had to untie, reverse out, switch the fenders and lines over then reverse back onto the dock. Having done this the fuel line reached our starboard filler which, fortunately, was the one that needed the most fuel. To fill the port tank we had to fill jerry cans and bring them over and siphon the fuel out. We were lent a siphon with a jigger by the other boat which saved me tasting diesel.

Once we had fueled up I had to run to the cash machine to get enough cash to pay for the fuel and to pay off our tab at Big Mamas. As soon as I returned and paid up we were off so as the next vessel waiting to fuel could come in and do so.

It was nearly 4pm by the time we dropped the hook more or less at the same spot as before. At 4:30pm we’d been invited over to Leu Cat with the Sea Mists where David offered Ben and Ian cigars. The cigars were open for all but none of the rest of us were up to them. We were all made Manhattan’s which are part of David’s daily ritual which he has with his cigar.

Back on the boat we finally relaxed watching a few TV shows. We’re still working our way through Prison Break – now in season 2 which is not so good but we’re soldiering on. More weather watching too. The GRIBs are not looking promising for a start south any time soon. The general advice is to wait for a ‘Big Fat High’ to pass which will bring steady trades behind it for approximately 5 days. No BFH’s are on the horizon and we have a good period of southerlies foretasted ahead of us. Our current strategy is to wait here until a BFH shows and set sail hoping that the trades will fall in behind it. If, after two days, they don’t we’ll stop in Minerva Reef 240 miles out.

Because weather watching is what we’re all doing here I’ve organized a daily morning meet up at Big Mama’s where we can pool our respected thoughts and perspectives on the most recent forecasts. If nothing else it’s something to do each day. Given the current picture we could be here for a while. At best we will learn new perspectives and sources of information from each other which can only enhance the decision making process. If we get pinned here for too long we may adjust our strategy and go for Minerva Reef and wait there. On the upside it knocks over 200nm and a couple of days off our final transit to New Zealand making it easier to shoot for a weather window. On the downside it’s a two day passage (which we don’t like) and, if we do get trades, it takes five degrees off our course which will make it closer and more bumpy for us. We’ll see.

Helen is almost finished her two year perspective. She’s been at it for a while now. She’s been cursing and swearing just now because she lost a paragraph while moving it around and now has remember and rewrite it.

Getting Ready

Thursday was a work day. We have a possibly tough crossing ahead of us so it’s necessary to check the boat all over and make things good. It was a little too windy and wet to bring the sail down but a lot else was accomplished. Most the checks went fine. I wasn’t happy with the bearing on my steering gear so I dismantled the rudder posts and greased them up. Batteries, sale cars and shrouds look ok. We washed out the bilges and tested the pumps. All good.

In the evening we went ashore to Big Mamas for beers and food with Sea Mist and Leu Cat – we all had a good time.

Today we’re going to clear out. We’ll do all our formalities, load up with fuel and provision for the trip. We’ll also try to get the head sail fixed. Then we’ll be set to go whenever the opportunity arises. I’m currently loading GRIBs 3 to 4 times a day to watch the evolving weather models. It’s a complex picture but it does look like an opening will arrive soon. On this one we could well start with some rare north westerlies followed by a calm and variable patch followed by a resumption of the trades. A decision will be made each day.

Pangaimotu

Our sail down was slow and drizzly but uneventful. We’d aimed for the eastern passage into Tongatapu hoping to see whales outside in the deep water. No luck there. We arrived around 3pm, anchored behind the island of Pangaimotu on first try and settled down exhausted. We’d all had a troubled night’s sleep and were all ready for a rest.

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Not without first checking the internet. This was fortunate really as although it is free here, it is insanely slow. So we all started downloading stuff then slowing down and resting.

In the evening we went ashore to Big Mama’s where we ate out along with Sea Mists, Imagines and Tahinas. Later, the movie “The Curious Case of Benjamin Button” was shown but we didn’t stay. The Visions of Johanna’s came for the movie so we had a chance to say hello and catch up. There are others in this anchorage we know. The Leu Cats are here as well as the Borees and another number of other boats we recognise but know less well. All are waiting here for their preferred weather window. A whole load of boats left last Sunday. I wouldn’t have but I keep my fingers crossed for all of them as we know a few.

This morning I took the 9am water taxi to the main dock a mile away to clear in. I shared a taxi to the Immigration Office with the Borees. There I discovered my visa was all in order and they said I didn’t need to do anything until I leave. Same was true for customs and the port captain, they said. It may be incorrect but I’m still cleared into Tonga so I can’t go too far wrong.

My next problem was that the return water taxi was at 1pm. I picked up some supplies based on a list that Helen gave me and wandered around Nuku’alofa for a while. I covered most of it in fairly short order and still ended up with plenty of time. I ended up at the dock an hour early. I sat in a cafe and read a magazine to kill the time.

This afternoon I’ve been back on the boat sorting out my ebook collection. Helen has spent all day on her year two perspective – still not finished. Ben has been stuck into his actuarial studies. It’s been too windy today to take down our headsail. Frank on Tahina offered us the use of his sail sewing machine which I’d like to do after taping up the tear. The quick and dirty fix of putting marine compound on the sail repair tape can wait until if and when it recurs.

A new headsail and a service of our old one was already on our to do list for New Zealand. I think the tear is a result of our old problem of the sun strip being a tad too narrow. We look after the sail by furling it tight but the initial damage may be quite old.