Aboard Dignity (Lagoon 420) Blog

Our walk to Fort Napoleon was nice but incomplete as the fort was closed. Turns out it is only open in the mornings. Our intention was to go back this morning but now I’m not so sure. On our return we bumped into an Englishwoman who had spent the last two weeks up and down between Martinique, Dominica and Guadeloupe. Her feedback on Dominica has reduced our desire to stay too long there. That may be just her perspective and they have missed much in their need to move through quickly so we need
to get more feedback.

Getting back to the boat we found a huge trimaran had hooked up to a mooring near to us and the anchorage overall had turned into a but of a scrum. The trimaran crew gestured that they tended to swing a lot and we needed to move. We shortened the chain thinking this would be enough. We ate ashore at 7pm. The dinner was nice but not memorable and not really worth what we paid.

Back on Dignity we found we had come up alongside another boat that was originally 40 feet in front of us and well to the side. It looked like currents and winds were taking individual boats in different directions. We lengthened the chain a bit and put out fenders thinking it would be better to stabilize the situation than to move and reanchor in the dark. We were woken several times by boats around us lifting their anchors and shifting. Eventually we heard a bump as Dignity came alongside the original boat and managed a light contact. We rushed to deck and were greeted by an angry man who’d come out from shore in his dinghy demanding we move. We had already come to the same conclusion.

Helen had a good suggestion which was to head back to Pain de Sucre. We had our original track to follow on the GPS, it was less than a mile away and we were familiar with the lay of the bottom. This would be better than finding a spot outside of the Bourg or trying to anchor in over 50ft where it was clear.

We made 3 or 4 separate attempts to anchor as we were uncomfortable with where we were settling before finally being comfortable enough to fall and stay asleep for the night well after 1am.

Waking this morning I see we’re one of ten boats in this anchorage which is crowded compared to previously. Perhaps it’s a midweek thing as folks on one week charters find their way here during the middle of their trip. Who knows.

We’re both feeling pretty tired so I imagine today we won’t doing too much. We may move the boat nearer to town though so we can get access to the delicious fresh bread and hopefully the internet again.

One has to be very careful with expectations. When they’re set high, actual experience can be disappointing. I have had a lot of good recommendations for The Saintes so I must admit my expectations were reasonably high. They have been exceeded. This place is really, really nice.

This morning after washing and making water we headed to the beach by Pain de Sucre. After a false start we found the road to town and started our walk. The weather was blue sky perfect and the air warm and dry. Half way to town we found the turn to Le Chameau Peak which is the highest point in The Saintes and promised a good lookout. The climb was a little strenuous but only just over 1,000 feet high. What none of the guides let on to was at the top was an old square tower which was largely intact into which they had built/left ladders with which you could climb to the very top. The view was out of this world. We have plenty of pics of course which will be posted in good time.

The descent and remaining walk to town was far easier than going up. We kept our eyes out for iguana as the hiking book said they could be found but were quite shy. In the end I spotted one in the bushes as we entered Bourg de Saintes – the one and only town in these islands. This little town is a real one in that they have schools and residences but is also geared for tourists. And how nice it is. It has plenty of well priced restaurants all looking very nice. The prices are low enough that we could eat out every day and stay within our budget. For instance, we had lunch today and had a three course meal with wine for $20 each.

The meal took it’s toll on our walk back to the boat. I took a nap and we’ve just been out snorkeling. Rain clouds have now filled the sky but we’ve had the best of the weather at the right times of day.

We’re definitely staying in this area for a few more days. We’re not going to move tonight but may well do so during the morning shuffle when folks set off for places new.