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Rob Roy Glacier

We thoroughly recommend Altamont, the small motel we’ve stayed at for the last two nights. Inexpensive but all under one small roof, great shared kitchen and wonderful lounge. That being said we did want something special for Valentines Day so we moved out shortly after 9am.

We decided to spend the middle of the day visiting Rob Roy Glacier. It was an hours drive west of Wanaka, most of it along a rough track which oddly enough got less bumpy the further we went. That was except for the increasing frequency of fords to cross which fortunately weren’t too deep.

We were a bit worried about the weather on the way out because the clouds were low and hugging and obscuring the mountain tops. As the day warmed the clouds lifted and dispersed revealing more of the awesome scenery around us.

From the Raspberry Flat car park at the very end of the road it was easy to figure out the right way to go for the hike as the usual excellent information was at hand. The hike up to Rob Roy glacier took about 90 minutes climbing along side a river of melt water which gushed down through the narrow cut in the rocks. The trail was wooded and cool with occasional rock falls and slips to negotiate. Although it needed some fitness there were plenty of folks making the trail including two carrying infants and many senior citizens. The effort was more than rewarded by the scenery at the end.

Rob Roy glacier was plastered over the top of a mountain rather then protruding down a valley. Melt water cascaded off the mountain in various places forming all sorts of water falls and trickles. We are our lunch surrounded by this stunning vista before making our way back. By the time we we back to the car park the sun had shifted sufficiently to make the whole area look quite different.

Back in Wanaka we picked up some bubbly to give the evening some fizz and checked into the new motel. We got stuck into the internet only to find a bunch of bills and stuff to sort out which took some time.

We did manage to do some longer term research and have settled on a plan (which will no doubt be altered as we go) for the next couple of years.

We’ve decided to stick to this area of the Pacific for the next sailing season returning to NZ next October/November. This will enable us to visit Samoa and parts of Tonga we didn’t visit last year. We’ll also get to spend more time in Fiji which has a vast number of small islands. More importantly it gives us a chance to slow down for a season. We had so many miles to cover and so many different places to see last year it would be nice to try a slower pace this year.

Coming back to NZ allows us to get settled quickly and leave the boat somewhere familiar and leave the country for a while. In November/December we want to visit my side of the family who’ve all moved to South Africa. Following that we want to visit Helen’s family and the boys in the UK for Xmas/New Year. We’ve learned that multi-city flights are a fantastic deal and sometime cheaper than straight through tickets. On our return leg to NZ we’re thinking of stopping off in Vietnam for a sample of the Far East. That will give us 2-3 months left in NZ to sail the islands/coast of the North Island which we don’t have the time to do this time around.

Looking further ahead we’ll sail to Australia in 2012 via Fiji, Vanuatu and New Caledonia. Having already done Fiji we may be able to squeeze in the Solomons. In 2012 the 4 yearly Festival of Pacific Arts is being held in Honiara. The dates haven’t been decided but that is something to consider if it can be squeezed in. There’s a possibility that Sam, out youngest, would join us for this leg. Our intention would be to reach Sydney before New Year and see the legendary fireworks from the harbour. In Jan/Feb 2013 a trip to Burma (where Helen was born) is shaping up to visit her relatives there and tour the country – if possible.

Back to today we plan on heading south. We love it here and could easily return. We want to push on south while we can then make our way north again. We’ve decided to hike the Kepler Trail if weather permits but against an overnight cruise on the sounds. We may take a day trip on Milford Sound though. There are a few more things we fancy doing down that way which we may or may not do as opportunity permits. For now, the next stop is Queenstown.

Hiking Around Wanaka

The day started off with a big breakfast, something we rarely do. That gave us the fuel to skip lunch and have a full day out.

Our first stop was Mt Iron close to the town of Wanaka and overlooking Puzzling World. Mt Iron, for you geology buffs, is a Roche Moutain (I think) – essentially something that was once a larger hill that has been ground down into a certain shape by past glaciation. The hike to the top and it’s great views and back down took about 90 minutes.

On that walk we made up our minds about how to spend Valentines Day. Our next stop was to book a nicer room for the 14th, one with nice views, it’s own bathroom and free internet (very romantic). The idea for the latter is we have some near, medium and long term planning to do as well as sorting a few things out in the US and this would be a good time to make some progress on this.

Our next stop was Diamond Lake to the west of town. A short walk up to this small lake was followed by a strenuous climb, first to a lower viewpoint and then on up to the top of Rocky Mountain. The views from the top were superb. The whole area is shaped by past glaciation with lakes, mountains, valleys, moraines, etc.

Being a loop track we took the return path down giving us a different perspective on the area. Once at the car we felt we’d done enough for the day and headed back to our room to read and rest.

Haast Pass -> Wanaka

The drive from Fox Glacier to Wanaka through Hasst Pass was quite pleasant. We stopped off at a couple of spots along the way. Once at a lookout on the coast where we bumped into a German family who’d been in the same glacier party as us. We didn’t talk for long as we were all being eaten up by sand flies. The next stop was for lunch at one of the many scenic stopovers along the way.

Wanaka is very nice holiday town beside a lake of the same name. It was originally a ski village but now it offers options year round. We looked at a few possible places to stay. It was incredibly windy and severe rains were forecast overnight so the tent was not attractive. We ended up in a little lodge which is very pleasant.

We did some laundry then went out to a nearby place called Puzzling Land. They had a similar maze to the one near Rotorua which we did with the boys. They also had some illusion rooms which were quite interesting. One section was all tipped up at 20 degrees which really fooled the brain and actually left us feeling a little seasick.

Lastly we went shopping and picked up a takeaway which we ate in the back garden of the lodge. We ended up spending the evening chatting to an American couple on their fourth visit to NZ.

On the Ice

We’ve just had a great day on Fox Glacier.

Packing up from the cabin was quick and soon we were driving south from Franz Josef to Fox. With a little time in hand and hardly a cloud in the sky we drove a couple of miles west so we could get a glimpse and and take a picture of Mount Tasman and Mount Cook, the second and highest mountains in NZ.

At 10:10 our party of 12 intrepid glacier explorers were called together to be kitted up. They had a good system where you could borrow as much additional gear as we needed including boots, raincoats, overtrousers, back packs, hats, mittens, etc. We were then bussed to the glacier car park in the company of our very informative guide Jonathan.

We were led up the side of the valley through the rain forest to get glimpses of the glacier from different vantage points. At one point we heard some large booms around the valley, the result of ice crashing from the tunnel where the river came out of the mouth of the glacier.

After nearly two hours we were at the edge of the glacier where we were given crampons to strap over our boots. Then we were climbing up onto the ice. Jonathan led the way using a pick axe to create/improve steps in the ice. When we reached a safe area he showed us various techniques for walking on the ice so we wouldn’t slip over.

Thus followed several hours of wandering over the ice to be shown features that changed from day to day. We were led through crevices and through moulins (holes in the ice). Jonathan spent a lot of time filling in the crevices so we could pass through working up a great sweat.

Towards the end we had an optional squeeze through a long tunnel. Helen and I both gave it a go. We started off crouching but the last half of the tunnel required us to get down on our bellies and wriggle through the wet ice. There were a few cut knees after this but no one seemed to care. We were all cold, wet and smiling.

As we walked off the glacier we became warmer and warmer glad to strip off our extra layers and dry off. Although we hadn’t felt tired throughout the day, by the time we reached the bus we did feel quite exhausted.

Having returned our borrowed equipment we said our thanks and headed off to the campsite to move into the cabin we’d booked the previous day. We didn’t stop long as we were famished. We headed into town and ate out.

Today we’re going to head out of here. The weather is overcast but not raining. We’re looking forward to driving the coast without it raining and giving us a chance to see the mountains around us. We should reach Wanaka.

At the foot of Franz Josef

Our plans were to have an easy day followed by a long day. With the Saturday weather forecast deteriorating and not wanting to get up at the crack of dawn on Friday to pack the tent we decided to move into one of the small cabins here. So Thursday morning was spent drying the dew off the tent, packing it and moving into the cabin.

Just before lunch we were done and off for the 45 minute walk to the foot of the Franz Josef glacier. This time we hiked from the car park along the wide bed of rubble formed by the river running under the glacier. As we approached the glacier itself we could see the maw of the river which was gushing strongly carrying large chunks of ice from within the glacier. We ate our lunch here taking in the valley and ever present waterfalls around us.

Back at the car we decided to drive to Fox Glacier 20km away to have a quick look around there. We drove to a point where we could see the glacier before returning to the small village to book our guided day hike for today. We also visited a campsite there and decided we’ll move into a cabin there after our day hike.

In the evening as we were settling down we ran into Don and Marie from Freezing Rain who had just arrived and moved into a cabin very near to us with Don’s sister, Sue. Inevitably we all ended up chatting the evening away over bottles of wine – a very nice surprise and end to the day.